2026, Vol. 11, No. 3. - go to content...

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Khotuleva N.V. Fastening construction as a design factor in costume fittings: the historical evolution of brooch fastening systems. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/03IVKL326.pdf (in Russian).

Fastening construction as a design factor in costume fittings: the historical evolution of brooch fastening systems

Khotuleva Natalia Valeryevna
Sergo Ordzhonikidze Russian State University for Geological Prospecting, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: risovat.prosto@bk.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0000-1421-4235
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1160075
WoS: https://www.webofscience.com/wos/author/rid/QQB-2607-2026

Abstract. The article examines the pin fastening system of the brooch as a design factor in costume fittings and considers historical fastening constructions as a source of structural principles. The aim is to determine how changes in the pin-to-body connection, the pin catch, and the attachment of fastening components affected the reverse-side layout, the position of the object on fabric, safety in wear, assembly, repairability, and wearing scenarios.

The study draws on dated museum objects from the eighteenth to the early twentieth century, patents issued between 1870 and 1937, and technical manuals published in 1916, 1975, and 1991. Structural-morphological, historical-comparative, typological, and source-critical methods are applied. The analytical unit is the system «pin — pin-to-body connection — pin catch — body». Documented features are distinguished from design implications inferred from the geometry of the mechanism.

The evolution of brooch fastening systems is understood not as a linear sequence of all known devices, but as the transformation of structural principles recorded in dated sources. The development of the pin-to-body connection, the catch, and safety mechanisms proceeded asynchronously. Pin fastening is shown to be a representative object of design analysis in costume fittings because it determines interaction with fabric, manufacturing technology, repairability, and the mode of wearing. Historical constructions may therefore be regarded as durable artistic and structural solutions repeatedly modified within the system «body — fabric — object — movement».

Keywords: brooch; costume fittings; fastening construction; hinge unit; pin-point catch; fittings design; reverse side of a brooch

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