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Petushkova G.I., Kurilina N.S. Ecological style in costume: morphology, formatting factors. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/06IVKL120.pdf (in Russian).

Ecological style in costume: morphology, formatting factors

Petushkova Galina Ivanovna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: galina-petushkova@mail.ru

Kurilina Nataliia Sergeevna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: Kurilina.n.s@gmail.com

Abstract. Ecological friendliness is a leading trend in modern design. It is not only a fashion trend, but a modern paradigm of design culture, aimed at a stable development. According to research, phenomenon of ecological design has three equal components: technological, substantial and aesthetic.

The purpose of the article is to identify the archetype and formatting factors in the ecological costume design, that have appeared under the influence of ecological paradigm in design culture. To formulate the definition of ecological style and the features of its morphology.

It’s established in the article that the ecological paradigm promoted the forming of a certain visual image in a costume of the 21st century. As a result of a survey among design students and experts of costume design, the style-forming lineaments of eco-style were identified:

• laconic images that are not overloaded with details;
• the absence of elements that deform figure;
• moderate colors, with the predominance of light colors;
• quality, safe, mainly natural materials;
• the presence of rough textures, imitating the manual manufacture of cloth;
• drawing motives for cloth design- ethnic, simplified geometry, characteristic for a folk costume, phytomorphic and zoomorphic motives;
• an abundance of handicraft, embroideries, basketry, also characteristic for folk costumes.

The article presents the methods of collecting and processing of information used in the research process. The authors studied the aesthetic component of ecological formating in costume design, style morphology: form, design lineaments, coloristic and ornamental solutions. On the basis of the received information the concepts of formatting were revealed: naturalness and individuality.

A working definition of the ecological style in the design of a modern costume is given, as a style of modern fashion, striving to provide the maximum physical, psychological and aesthetic comfort.

Keywords: costume design; ecological design paradigm; ecological style; morphology of style; style-forming lineaments; formative factor; archetype

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