2021, Vol. 6, No. 1. - go to content...

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Guseva M.A., Andreeva E.G., Ali K. Constructive and technological features of designing lightweight fur clothing. Journal of Clothing Science. 2021; 6(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/11TLKL121.pdf (in Russian).

Constructive and technological features of designing lightweight fur clothing

Guseva Marina Anatolievna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: guseva_marina67@mail.ru
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=829347

Andreeva Elena Georgievna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: elenwise@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1464-0450
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=259825
Researcher ID: https://www.researcherid.com/rid/Q-1132-2015

Ali kyzy Kyrmanzhan
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: alikyzy@yandex.ru

Abstract. The article examines creative trends in design and compositional solution of models of fur clothing, analyzes modern designer collections and highlights lightweight and double-sided fur products. It has been established that the original aesthetics of fur clothing models can be achieved by creating a complex texture of the fur surface using special cutting methods and the technique of weaving fur threads. For the manufacture of fur fabric using the weaving technique, you can use a fur semi-finished product of various varieties, including low-grade skins with hairline defects. The technique of forming fur threads allows you to exclude low-quality sections of cut skin fragments and to obtain original visual and tactile effects in woven fur products.

The experiment carried out by the authors on the gluing duplication of perforated fur with various materials has shown the possibility of enhancing the strength of lightweight products in certain areas to improve their operational properties. For the durability of maintaining the original external volumetric-spatial shape of fur products with a perforated structure or a reduced thickness of leather tissue, the authors proposed to use form-fixing tape frames. To increase the thermal protection and wind resistance of lightweight clothing, it is proposed to strengthen its support areas with a movable frame with one-piece molded gaskets.

The authors present the technology of making braided personalized fur clothing on the example of designing a female coat from lynx fur. The importance of such a stage in the manufacture of wicker products as the form-fixing of a flattened spatial shape, for the implementation of which it is possible to apply technological deformation along the main cuts of parts, is revealed. The use of special methods of shaping and fixing lightweight fur clothing helps to increase their ergonomic and operational properties and expand the spectrum of textures of the fur surface and models of fur products.

Keywords: fur surface design; fur cutting techniques; perforated fur; braided fur clothing

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