2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Ionova N.V., Krivonos D.A., Sichkarʹ T.V. Ornamental and coloristic solutions in Finno-Ugric peoples’ clothing: history and modernity. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/18IVKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Ornamental and coloristic solutions in Finno-Ugric peoples’ clothing: history and modernity

Ionova Nadezhda Vyacheslavovna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: kirskim567@gmail.com

Krivonos Darʹya Alekseevna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: krivonosdasha0109@gmail.com

Sichkarʹ Tatʹyana Valentinovna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: ditava1@mail.ru

Abstract. The article discusses the features of the national costumes of the Finno-Ugric peoples. It has been established that the formation of the national costume of the Finno-Ugric ethnic groups took place taking into account the peculiarities of their worldview in creating images and a territorial sign of peoples’ residence. This left its mark on the ornamental and color component of the costume. As an object of study, the Udmurt national costume of the Perm subgroup was chosen, which had its own differences among the southern and northern Udmurts. It was established that the color preferences of southerners and northerners had significant differences, and the overall color scheme of the costume obeyed the laws of analogous and complementary composition. The ornamental design of the women’s costume shows the use of sacred symbols that bring health, good luck, happiness, the mercy of the gods and the power of nature to the ethnic group. A comparative analysis of the collection of modern designer clothes by Arina Belyaeva and Polina Buldakova was carried out using national motifs of Udmurt clothing. It has been established that modern designers in the presented collections used not only identical color schemes, but also similar patterned compositions. A harmonious synthesis of modern and national coloristic and ornamental costume solutions is shown. Thus, the presented modern clothing collections clearly demonstrated the historical and cultural connection between modern man and a particular ethnic group of the Finno-Ugric group.

Keywords: Finno-Ugric peoples; ornament; color solution; Udmurt national costume; modern clothing designers

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