2023, Vol. 8, No. 2. - go to content...

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Yavorovskaya E.A., Zaretskaya G.P., Tambovtseva E.P. Investigation of the possibility of manufacturing seamless felt products. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/21TLKL223.pdf (in Russian).

Investigation of the possibility of manufacturing seamless felt products

Yavorovskaya Evgeniya Aleksandrovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: evgeniyayavorovskaya@yandex.ru

Zaretskaya Galina Petrovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: zaretskaya-gp@rguk.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4899-7551
RSCI: https://www.elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=325141
WoS: https://www.webofscience.com/wos/author/rid/F-4144-2014
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57197845146

Tambovtseva Ekaterina Pavlovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: tambovtseva-ep@rguk.ru

Abstract. The article explores the possibility of manufacturing seamless felt trousers. The relevance of this study is due, firstly, to the demand for designer clothing made of natural materials, and secondly, to the popularity of felting as a method of its manufacture.

When designing the product, the following features of felting technology are taken into account: the formation of a product directly from raw materials; the layout of parts of a complex curved shape on a flat surface; the possibility of manufacturing a seamless volumetric product using felted joints of various configurations. The main problems in the manufacture of seamless felt trousers associated with the creation of the necessary relief and the complexity of connecting parts are noted. The main formative elements of trousers are revealed by the example of their basic design. The methods of shaping for felt products are determined, such as the formation of a curved bend due to the shape of the template, uneven shrinkage due to the application of directed efforts, the method of fiber layout, the inclusion of additional materials in the structure of the felt web. It is revealed that the final shape of the finished felt clothing is influenced by factors such as the geometry of the template for the layout of the fibrous canvas, large shrinkage in the direction along the fibers; the presence of functional and decorative inserts, the use of an internal mannequin for molding product parts; the use of wet-heat treatment to change the geometric parameters of individual sections.

According to the results of the research, the authors propose a method for manufacturing felt trousers using flat curved templates and blockers made of foamed polymer materials, and describe the way of manufacturing the product. The prospects of further research aimed at modifying the template for the manufacture of designer felt trousers of model designs are outlined.

Keywords: felt; felting; seamless clothing; felted joints; shaping; trousers; technical shells

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