Journal of Clothing Science
Journal of Clothing Science
           

2024, Vol. 9, No. 4. - go to content...

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Gavrilova O.E., Nikitina L.L. Ethnostille in the design of a modern variety costume based on the traditions of tatarfolk costume. Journal of Clothing Science. 2024; 9(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/23TLKL424.pdf (in Russian).


Ethnostille in the design of a modern variety costume based on the traditions of tatarfolk costume

Gavrilova Olga Evgen’evna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: oegavrilova@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3597-9143
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=792852

Nikitina Ludmila Leonidovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: naik@bk.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2687-2299
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=792899

Abstract. Ethnostille in the development of a compositional and constructive design solution of a stage-costume can appear itself in different ways. A stage-costume is not just finest clothes, the purpose of which is to decorate a person, it is not a tribute to fashion with a variety of styles and cuts, the performer is not a demonstrator of clothes. The ethnostyle is realized in a stage-costume for the characteristic orientation of pop art. Elements of the ethnic style are included in the costume for performing folk songs, dancing or singing songs in national languages. Often performers of folk songs and dances use a costume that, to one degree or another, illustrates the content of the performed composition or the entire repertoire, helping to demonstrate the rich heritage of the ethnic group in the form of customs, patterns, shapes, and decoration techniques. A stage-costume that is not purely scenic (which can help embody a historical character, etc.), accordingly, is not a reconstruction of a folk costume. In its structure, shape and decor, the features of a certain ethnic group, a separate people, a group of peoples can only be guessed. When designing such a costume, it is important to capture the most readable, characteristic features of a folk costume, adapt them to current fashion trends (combined with the general style of the costume) and embody them in the structure of the costume, materials, structural elements, finishes, color design, shaping. To implement an ethnostille in a stage-costume, one or two of the listed elements are enough, which will refer the imagination of viewers and listeners to national traditions. Modern ethnostille involves a combination of several directions: the comfort of classics, elements of a certain ethnic style, luxury finishes, laconic forms and minimalism in proportions. The article reveals the concepts of «ethnostille», «stage-costume», defines the elements of the Tatar substyle, provides an example of the development of clothing models for a singer of songs in the Tatar language.

Keywords: ethnostille; stage-costume; folk costume; designing; design solution; shape; ornament

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