{"id":1290,"date":"2021-12-01T16:03:05","date_gmt":"2021-12-01T13:03:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/?p=1290"},"modified":"2021-12-01T16:03:05","modified_gmt":"2021-12-01T13:03:05","slug":"06ivkl421","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/06ivkl421.html","title":{"rendered":"The formation of the environmental concept in the context of the transformation of women\u2019s costume in the XX\u2013XXI centuries"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong>Petushkova Galina Ivanovna<\/strong><br \/>\nRussian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia<br \/>\nE-mail: galina-petushkova@mail.ru<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong>Kurilina Nataliia Sergeevna<\/strong><br \/>\nRussian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia<br \/>\nE-mail: Kurilina.n.s@gmail.com<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Abstract.<\/strong> The formation of environmental culture in the XXI century affected the formative strategies of women\u2019s costume. The principle of naturalness based on anthropomorphism and the principle of individualization became essential. The evolution of the ecological concept in women\u2019s costume took place against the backdrop social and cultural transformations. The culture has overcome the path from the desire for subordination of nature to attempts of harmonious interaction based on ethic principles. And the fashionable silhouette \u2014 from standardized proportions formed with the costume to the naturalness and acceptance of complexity of beauty and individuality.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">The authors have identified seven periods of the formation of the principles of the ecological concept: I period (late XIX \u2014 early XX century); II period (the years of the First World War); III period (20\u201330s); IV period (the years of the Second World War); V period (post-war years \u2014 50s); VI period (60\u201390s); VII \u2014 the beginning of the XXI century.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">Prerequisites for changes in women\u2019s costume are the change of social roles, the formation of feminism, the growing popularity of sports activities and the development of mass production of clothes. For the first three periods the women\u2019s costume strives to gain functionality and ergonomics. Design that deforms natural proportions disappears, there is a transition from the formation of silhouette by costume towards the formation of figure directly with sports and nutrition. The perception of corporality and norms of nudity is close to modern. The fourth and the fifth periods are highlighted by nostalgic moods, which demonstrated the impossibility of returning to the imagery and values of the past. The sixth period combines a large time period characterized by a variety of styles and subcultural trends. While the first three periods can be identified as the desire for freedom of movement, this period is devoted to the freedom of selfexpression. The phenomenon of deconstruction in fashion of the late XX century subjected to rethinking not only the principles of costume design but also the concept of aesthetics, conventional social norms and values. The formation of the new concept in costume design takes place in the beginning of the XXI century under the influence of environmental culture.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Keywords:<\/strong> ecological culture; women&#8217;s costume; corporality; fashionable silhouette; proportions; formation; naturalness; individuality; period; functionality; ergonomics<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Petushkova Galina Ivanovna Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia E-mail: galina-petushkova@mail.ru Kurilina Nataliia Sergeevna Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia E-mail: Kurilina.n.s@gmail.com Abstract. The formation of environmental culture in the &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[31,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1290","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-vol6-no4","category-article"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1290","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1290"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1290\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1294,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1290\/revisions\/1294"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1290"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1290"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1290"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}