{"id":3059,"date":"2026-06-20T14:19:36","date_gmt":"2026-06-20T11:19:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/?p=3059"},"modified":"2026-06-20T14:19:36","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T11:19:36","slug":"12ivkl226","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/12ivkl226.html","title":{"rendered":"Evolution of semiotic representations of ornament in the traditional costume of the Turkic peoples of the Altai Mountains"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong>Nechaeva Anna Sergeevna<\/strong><br \/>\nAltai State University, Barnaul, Russia<br \/>\nE-mail: as_nechaeva@mail.ru<br \/>\nORCID: <a href=\"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-3833-3962\">https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-3833-3962<\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Abstract.<\/strong> The article investigates the evolution of the semiotic functions of ornament in the traditional costume of the Turkic peoples of the Altai Mountains \u2014 clothing, headwear, footwear, belts, and accessories. Based on an analysis of museum collections (the State Hermitage Museum, the Peter the Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography (MAE RAS), the A.V. Anokhin National Museum of the Altai Republic), ethnographic drawings by G.I. Choros-Gurkin, as well as the author&#8217;s field materials, the study examines the stages of transformation of ornamental motifs \u2014 from the sacred zoomorphic images of the Scythian\u2011Siberian animal style of the Pazyryk culture (5th\u20133rd centuries BCE) to abstract geometric signs and tamgas in the Ancient Turkic period, then to stylized decoration in the Soviet era, and finally to re\u2011sacralization in contemporary ethno\u2011design. Ornament is interpreted as a stable semiotic system of costume, encoding the wearer&#8217;s social status, clan affiliation, age, and marital status. The author identifies the iconographic features and semantics of key motifs \u2014 koshkar muyiz (ram&#8217;s horn), kul&#8217;dya, the Tree of Life, solar signs, and tamgas \u2014 depending on their placement on items of the costume complex. Color symbolism (red \u2014 life and protection, blue \u2014 sky, white \u2014 purity, black \u2014 fertility) and embroidery techniques (tambour stitch, counted\u2011thread embroidery, appliqu\u00e9, gold embroidery) are analyzed. The role of ornament as a marker of ethnic and sub\u2011ethnic identity is demonstrated. The conclusion substantiates the re\u2011sacralization of Altai ornament in contemporary craft practices, festivals (the \u00abMagic Felt\u00bb competition, the \u00abShyrdakFest\u00bb festival), and ethno\u2011design projects. Ornament ceases to be mere decoration, regaining its status as a bearer of ethnocultural memory and identity.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong>Keywords:<\/strong> ornament; traditional costume; semiotics; turkic peoples; Altai Mountains; evolution of symbols; tamga; embroidery; color symbolism<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Nechaeva Anna Sergeevna Altai State University, Barnaul, Russia E-mail: as_nechaeva@mail.ru ORCID: https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-3833-3962 Abstract. The article investigates the evolution of the semiotic functions of ornament in the traditional costume of the Turkic peoples of the Altai Mountains \u2014 clothing, headwear, footwear, &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[52,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3059","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-vol11-no2","category-article"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3059","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3059"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3059\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3060,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3059\/revisions\/3060"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3059"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3059"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/kostumologiya.ru\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3059"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}