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Bortnikova N.V. Textile chest accessories for women’s suits: traditions and modernity. Journal of Clothing Science. 2024; 9(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/02IVKL124.pdf (in Russian).

Textile chest accessories for women’s suits: traditions and modernity

Bortnikova Natalya Vyacheslavovna
Udmurt State University, Izhevsk, Russia
E-mail: bortnicova.natasha@yandex.ru

Abstract. The article is devoted to the study of traditional textile chest elements of the women’s traditional costume of the Udmurts and Bashkirs with the aim of using their local features for the subsequent design of modern women’s accessories in ethnic style. The bib was a removable element of a married woman’s costume, covering a slit in the shirt made for the convenience of feeding a newborn child. Therefore, from ancient times, bibs served the function of protection and amulet. Among the Udmurts and Bashkirs, the functionality of the bib was the same, but the size, shape and decorative decoration varied depending on the territorial location and socio-economic conditions. The Udmurt bibs «kabachi» and «muresaz» had an oblong rectangular shape; according to the technique of execution, «kabachi» were richly embroidered, «muresaz» were made using the appliqué technique. Unlike the Udmurt bibs, the Bashkir bibs «tushelderek», «izeu» were similar in shape to a shovel or trapezoid, made using the technique of appliqué, sewing various pieces of ribbons, silver coins, shells, coral on matter. It is noteworthy that over time, among the Bashkirs, the bib began to be designed and made from more expensive fabrics; among the Udmurts, on the contrary, over time, the bib became simpler in technique and decoration. One thing remains unchanged — the abundance of red. For both peoples, it symbolized life, fertility, blood, and beauty. This is exactly what was encrypted in the women’s woven bibs of the Udmurts and Bashkirs. A modern interpretation of traditional bibs becomes a bright and stylish accessory. Preserving the centuries-old memory of the people and its modern interpretation is an important and priority task. This can be judged by the works of Udmurt and Bashkir designers: E. Ganieva, A. Kirdyakin, A. Kutova, G. Matveeva, L. Sudneva, S. Khasanova, L. Shchinova and many others.

Keywords: Udmurt bibs; muresaz; Bashkir bibs; izeu; modern women’s accessories; ethnic style; traditional costume

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