2022, Vol. 7, No. 2. - go to content...

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Budnikova O.V., Khmelevskaya A.G. The constructivism formula in costume design. Journal of Clothing Science. 2022; 7(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/04IVKL222.pdf (in Russian).

The constructivism formula in costume design

Budnikova Olga Vladimirovna
Southwest State University, Kursk, Russia
E-mail: budnikovakursk30@yandex.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=683993

Khmelevskaya Alina Grigorievna
Southwest State University, Kursk, Russia
E-mail: alina.xm@yandex.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1133983

Abstract. In the context of the world trends the requirements to the costume design are greatly increasing. It is because the costume design is considered to be one of the most significant directions from the ecological point of view. While investigating the technological aspects of the fashion development, much attention was paid to the versatility and ergonomics of the costume design by the Russian Constructivists.

Ideological and conceptual constituents used to be of great importance in their creations due to the political and economic situation of that period, the latter being aimed at building the New Man Appearance.

It was the necessity to create ordinary standardized and functional costume models permitting to produce them as much effectively as possible both on the manufacturing sites and domestic basis that underlay the artist-constructivist group origination. The materials applied for the first soviet models were natural ones: canvas, linen, calico, cotton print, felt, woolen cloth, baize, frieze, flax, fustian etc. As those fabrics were rough enough and hard to drape the constructivists offered sharp geometrical shapes to their clothes design.

That simple geometrical cutting dictated the usage of print and graphics on the fabrics which improved the art image of the costumes and satisfied the ideological requirements of the Soviet society.

At present the formation of the universal stable standardized fashion starting in the 20-s and 30-s of the last century, the design principles, ergonomics and designers search for technological decisions are still actual.

The modified design methods of the Russian Constructivists can be suitable to minimize costs at the production and consumption stages because of the brand ecological policy and quick adaption to the modern market changing conditions.

Analyzing the historical experience and achievements from the contemporary cultural positions, the main design principles, namely the four basic components have been synthesized. They are the four Es: Efficiency, Ergonomics, Ecology and Esthetics. Taken together they form the formula of Constructivism.

Under the present development conditions of the fashion industry the given formula can be recommended for the textile and sewing manufacture optimization and the ecological consumption system.

Keywords: fashion history; costume history; constructivism; costume design; eco-design; ideology; ergonomics; aesthetics

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