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[The formation of the environmental concept in the context of the transformation of women’s costume in the XX–XXI centuries] Journal of Clothing Science, 2021, Vol. 6, No. 4. Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/.pdf (in Russian).

The formation of the environmental concept in the context of the transformation of women’s costume in the XX–XXI centuries

Petushkova Galina Ivanovna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: galina-petushkova@mail.ru

Kurilina Nataliia Sergeevna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: Kurilina.n.s@gmail.com

Abstract. The formation of environmental culture in the XXI century affected the formative strategies of women’s costume. The principle of naturalness based on anthropomorphism and the principle of individualization became essential. The evolution of the ecological concept in women’s costume took place against the backdrop social and cultural transformations. The culture has overcome the path from the desire for subordination of nature to attempts of harmonious interaction based on ethic principles. And the fashionable silhouette — from standardized proportions formed with the costume to the naturalness and acceptance of complexity of beauty and individuality.

The authors have identified seven periods of the formation of the principles of the ecological concept: I period (late XIX — early XX century); II period (the years of the First World War); III period (20–30s); IV period (the years of the Second World War); V period (post-war years — 50s); VI period (60–90s); VII — the beginning of the XXI century.

Prerequisites for changes in women’s costume are the change of social roles, the formation of feminism, the growing popularity of sports activities and the development of mass production of clothes. For the first three periods the women’s costume strives to gain functionality and ergonomics. Design that deforms natural proportions disappears, there is a transition from the formation of silhouette by costume towards the formation of figure directly with sports and nutrition. The perception of corporality and norms of nudity is close to modern. The fourth and the fifth periods are highlighted by nostalgic moods, which demonstrated the impossibility of returning to the imagery and values of the past. The sixth period combines a large time period characterized by a variety of styles and subcultural trends. While the first three periods can be identified as the desire for freedom of movement, this period is devoted to the freedom of selfexpression. The phenomenon of deconstruction in fashion of the late XX century subjected to rethinking not only the principles of costume design but also the concept of aesthetics, conventional social norms and values. The formation of the new concept in costume design takes place in the beginning of the XXI century under the influence of environmental culture.

Keywords: ecological culture; women’s costume; corporality; fashionable silhouette; proportions; formation; naturalness; individuality; period; functionality; ergonomics

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