2020, Vol. 5, No. 2. - go to content...

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Sorokovaya M.A., Chirkova N.A. Modification of coating materials for leather finishing by including liposomal compositions in them. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/06TLKL220.pdf (in Russian).

Modification of coating materials for leather finishing by including liposomal compositions in them

Sorokovaya Maria Andreevna
Russian state university named after A.N. Kosygina (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: Sorokovaya1991@mail.ru

Chirkova Natalya Alekseevna
Russian state university named after A.N. Kosygina (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: Chirckowa.natalja2013@yandex.ru

Abstract. The quality of genuine leather is largely determined at the finishing stage. The finishing coating is formed in several steps during coating dyeing and is a multi-layer composition. The lower layers of such a composition are called the grain impregnation and base coat, they serve to: reduce the pipeness, eliminate the break of leather, align the absorption capacity of topographic areas and create a substrate for subsequent layers of dye, as well as to give the leather the desired color. In the last few years, roller machines have replaced the old technologies for applying finishing coatings with watering and brushing methods; it reduces the consumption of chemical materials for finishing by 50–70 %. Modern market needs are increasing, and to maintain the competitiveness of products, it is necessary not only to modernize equipment, but also the compounds used in the industry. If the task is successfully solved, this will help to eliminate a number of problems that arise when finishing leather, improve the quality of finished products and increase the environmental friendliness of compositions.

Within the framework of this problem, the authors present a method for modifying finishing coatings by including liposomal compositions in them. Liposomes, having a nanoscale size, are able to penetrate deeper into the interfibrillary space of the dermis, thereby «sewing» the face and more effectively eliminate the defect of pipeness. Liposomal compositions have a softening effect, as well as are completely biodegradable; they may include antibacterial, fungicidal and insecticidal substances. The authors proposed the term lipocoating for short and succinct designation of leather finishing coatings modified by including liposomal compositions in them.

The article presents the results of research of rheological properties of finishing coatings, both initial and modified. The influence of processing with initial compositions and lipocoatings on the physical and mechanical characteristics of the leather samples is revealed and described. The results of an expert survey to identify the most priority samples in accordance with organoleptic indicators, evaluated by a priori factor ranking. The article was performed as a part of a dissertation research.

Key words: finishing leather; coating dyeing; liposomal composition; lipocoating; natural leather; modification; priming; priority ranking; viscosity; tensile strength; hydrophilicity; stiffness

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