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Bogatova L.F., Shaekhov M.F. Methods of processing leather and fur raw materials in the XI–XVIII centuries. Journal of Clothing Science. 2024; 9(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/06TLKL324.pdf (in Russian).

Methods of processing leather and fur raw materials in the XI–XVIII centuries

Bogatova Lina Feliksovna
Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Tatarstan, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: linafeliksovna@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5861-7519
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=839662

Shaekhov Mars Faritovich
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: ShaekhovMF@corp.knrtu.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6759-3141
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=130250
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=6505554710

Abstract. The article provides an analysis of the technological features of furrier production in the XI–XVIII centuries. The factors of the raw material base, technological process and geographical location affecting the state of preservation of the archaeological site made of genuine leather are considered. These objects have a fibrous structure, the physical and mechanical properties of which are modified by various technological processes using reagents. The structure of the skin and the use of organic reagents are the main reasons for the poor preservation of such products. The analysis of the above data makes it possible to take into account, when describing the state of preservation of an archaeological object made of genuine leather, the factors of existence in the process of turning an animal skin into a finished product. In modern scientific restoration, the organoleptic method is the basis for describing the state of preservation of a leather monument. However, the description of the attribution of the product and its use in the household sphere, according to the dating, is not enough to justify the conservation and restoration measures. Applying the described factors affecting the skin in the process of leather and fur production, based on the data of the relevant region and the time of manufacture, the restorer will be able to draw a conclusion about the physical and mechanical properties and composition of the material. Using the data of the technological process of leather and fur production, the authors propose a new technology for the conservation of archaeological objects made of genuine leather, the basis of which is the division of the process into stages and the use of processing of nonequilibrium low-temperature plasma.

Keywords: archaeological leather products; degradation factors; state of preservation; conservation of archaeological sites; technology of manufacture; raw materials base

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