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Zimina O.A., Osanova E.V., Lebedeva E.V. The semantics of the traditional costume of the Kuban Cossacks: cultural codes and symbolic systems. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/08IVKL326.pdf (in Russian).

The semantics of the traditional costume of the Kuban Cossacks: cultural codes and symbolic systems

Zimina Olga Alexandrovna
Kuban State University, Krasnodar, Russia
E-mail: 4377431@mail.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=682091

Osanova Elvira Vladimirovna
Kuban State University, Krasnodar, Russia
E-mail: elvira-lem@rambler.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0003-9056-1134
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1173279

Lebedeva Elena Vitalevna
Kuban State University, Krasnodar, Russia
E-mail: trkmasterskaya@mail.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1341186

Abstract. The article is devoted to the analysis of the semantic structure of the traditional costume of the Kuban Cossacks as a complex sign system reflecting social status, gender and age differences, ritual functions, and the worldview of Cossack society. Based on the analysis of ethnographic sources, four main levels of semantization have been identified: social semantics (indicators of status and hierarchy), military and defensive semantics (functions related to combat readiness), colour symbolism (cultural and magical meanings of colour), and ornamental semantics (a system of amulets and symbolic motifs). It is shown that the formation of the Kuban Cossack costume was influenced by Caucasian, Ukrainian, and other Slavic cultural traditions, resulting in a unique costume complex that reflects the complex history of ethno‑social interaction.

The study employs an interdisciplinary approach combining the methods of semiotics, ethnography, and costume history: a systematic analysis of the sign function of individual elements (lampas, gazyri, bashlyk, decorations, etc.) has been carried out, and their role in non‑verbal communication within the Cossack community has been revealed. Particular attention is paid to the transformation of the utilitarian functions of clothing items into stable cultural codes — for example, the evolution of the practical purpose of gazyri from storing powder charges to serving as a marker of status and combat readiness.

The practical application of the material is intended for the development of semantic elements in modern ethnic‑style costume design to express regional cultural identity. The research findings may be of interest to the academic community (in the fields of ethnography, cultural studies, and costume history), as well as to professional designers working with ethnic motifs and seeking a meaningful, rather than merely decorative, interpretation of traditional codes.

Keywords: Kuban Cossacks; traditional costume; semantics; symbolism; ethnoculture; ritual functions; social hierarchy; and ethnic style

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