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Zakharov A.S., Chizhova N.V. Investigation in a digital environment of the effect of material thickness on the quality of product fit on figures with changes in secondary posture traits. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/08TLKL125.pdf (in Russian).

Investigation in a digital environment of the effect of material thickness on the quality of product fit on figures with changes in secondary posture traits

Zakharov Alexander Sergeevich
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: 220259@stud.rguk.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1251907

Chizhova Natalia Viktorovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: chizhova–nv@rguk.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=876885

Abstract. The quality of fit of a garment has a significant impact on comfort and convenience, ensuring the necessary freedom of movement and lack of discomfort during wear. The determining factor of the quality of fit in upper garments made of thick and rigid materials is the conformity of the design to the signs of human posture. The experiment was carried out on the modified basic design, for obtaining the effect of flat cut in the area of shoulder support surface the armhole was modified. The research of changes in the design parameters of products with different thickness of materials on the figure was carried out on an avatar in the CLO 3D programme. The initial basic design of products with 0,1 cm, 0,3 cm and 0,5 cm thick leather was tried on. The experiment with virtual fitting on the figures with normal, kinked and slouching posture of the upper articles made of materials of different thicknesses allowed to establish the dependences of changes in the design parameters of the basic constructions of the articles. Changes in the indices of balance measurement (Vpk) and back waist length (Dts) were established. Shoulder oblique height increased with increasing leather thickness, while back waist length (Dts) decreased. It was concluded that when designing garments with different leather thicknesses, the proportional positive additions for back waist length 1 (Dts1) and front waist length (Dtp) measurements, as well as the positive addition for the balance measurement (Vpk), should be taken into account.

Keywords: quality of fit; basic design; virtual fitting; balance characteristics; design modification

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