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Shalmina I.I., Kartseva I.V. Creating a voluminous form of clothing on a shape-changing mannequin. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/10TLKL320.pdf (in Russian).

Creating a voluminous form of clothing on a shape-changing mannequin

Shalmina Irina Ivanovna
Omsk state technical university, Omsk, Russia
E-mail: i.shalmina@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7569-1921
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=477032

Kartseva Irina Vladimirovna
Katanov Khakass state university, Abakan, Russia
E-mail: irina@kartseva.org
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4157-0782
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=630546

Abstract. The article explores how to mold a clothing item using a three-dimensional modeling technology on a shape-changing robotic mannequin. This idea stems from the fact that a vast number of fabrics utilized in the clothing industry can be molded into three-dimensional shapes using structural characteristics of the fabric and physicomechanical properties of fibers. The required three-dimensional shape of a garment item can be achieved by polyaxial retraction and extruding of the fabric on the shaping mannequin. It provides an alternative to traditional ways of making a clothing silhouette via stitching. The resulting three-dimensional shape of a garment is then subject to «stabilizing» – a combination of applying heat and steam to the fabric in order to fix its form permanently. Different types of fabric can have varying steaming and cooling time to fix the effect of form-fixing. The existing variety of shape-changing mannequins is utilized to construct three-dimensional human body models that account for specifics of real human bodies. They are primarily deployed to customize clothing design, making virtual reality clothes fitting, and select clothes for non-common human shapes and silhouettes.

Those mannequins, however, are not designed to be used for garment shaping during the production stage. In this article, we discuss how to employ a robotic mannequin during the clothes production process. The device in question can shape a garment by adjusting itself according to the shape of reference, and stabilize the result by automatically heating its surface and blow-steaming the garment. Authors concentrate on three-dimensional modeling of the human torso, as its shape is especially geometrically complex when it comes to human clothing design and production. This article proposes a shape-changing mannequin designed to ease the shaping, form-fixing, and shape-adjustment of garments during their production stage.

Keywords: apparel; 3D apparel modelling technology; shape-fixing of clothing items; human shape; shape-adjusting mannequin; robotic mannequin

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