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Tikhonova V.P., Rakhmatullina G.R., Nizamova D.K., Fukina O.V., Beztsenny K.A., Ibragimov D.R. Modern method to increase wear resistance of vintage natural material of fashion industry. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/10TLKL325.pdf (in Russian).

Modern method to increase wear resistance of vintage natural material of fashion industry

Tikhonova Valentina Petrovna
Kazan National Research Technological Institute, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: bog208@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4047-1371
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=799997

Rakhmatullina Gulnaz Raisovna
Kazan National Research Technological Institute, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: gulnaz-f@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0000-2475-5174
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=459831
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57193535796

Nizamova Daria Konstantinovna
Kazan National Research Technological Institute, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: nizamova.darya.93@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3114-6788
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1189610
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57212209715

Fukina Olga Vitalievna
Plekhanov Russian University of Economics, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: fukina.ov@rea.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0004-7701-4723
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=571477

Beztsenny Konstantin Alekseevich
Kazan National Research Technological Institute, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: yakostyapain@gmail.com

Ibragimov Danis Rustemovich
Kazan National Research Technological Institute, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: danisibragimov97@gmail.com

Abstract. Parchment is a natural material consisting of 95 % collagen, the most common protein, in addition to collagen, it contains elastin, glycoproteins, fats and minerals. Collagen molecules formed in the form of fibrils form fibers with voids in between. The surface relief of the parchment, both the front and the flesh side, is formed by collagen fibers and fibrils oriented in different directions. In ancient times, parchment was used to make clothes, shoes, belts and other items. Nowadays, parchment leather is widely used in sewing.

The paper studies the effect of low-energy ion flow on the wear resistance of parchment made from sheepskin. Treatment of collagen-containing material in low-pressure high-frequency capacitive discharge plasma allows to achieve a significant improvement in the properties of products made from it. It has been established that modification of parchment for 5 min, pressure in the working chamber of 26,6 Pa, plasma-forming gas (argon) consumption of 0,04 g/s, discharge power of 1,8 kW, generator frequency of 15,76 MHz in a flow of low-energy ions is accompanied by the creation of a more homogeneous, dense structure characterized by small pores both in the volume of the material and on its surface, which is confirmed by a significant decrease in roughness, as a result of which the wear resistance of parchment from sheepskins increases in general.

Today, parchment is rarely used in everyday life, but it continues to be actively used in sewing, to create embroideries or unique appliques, adding elements of exoticism and luxury.

Keywords: parchment; roughness; pores; wear resistance; sheepskin; structure; plasma; vintage material

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