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Andrievskii M.Yu., Getmantceva V.V. Parametric methodology for studying the «armhole-sleeve cap-shoulder» node in oversize garment design. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/11TLKL126.pdf (in Russian).

Parametric methodology for studying the «armhole-sleeve cap-shoulder» node in oversize garment design

Andrievskii Maksim Yurevich
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: maksim31920@gmail.com
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1261930

Getmantceva Varvara Vladimirovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: getmantseva-vv@rguk.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=540375

Abstract. The article addresses the pressing issue of designing clothing with an extended shoulder line (oversize fit), for which traditional construction lacks formalized methods. The key challenge lies in ensuring the correct integration of the «armhole-sleeve cap» node when the shoulder point is significantly shifted, often leading to structural defects. The aim of the research is to develop and test a parametric research methodology to identify qualitative and quantitative dependencies between the key parameters of this node. The methodology is based on integrating the capabilities of 2D (Grafis) and 3D CAD (Clo3D) systems, enabling a closed cycle of «parametric design — virtual fitting — correction». A men’s sweatshirt construction was chosen as the research object. The experiment involved creating a series of digital models by varying the independent variable — the shoulder slope length allowance — in 30 mm increments. The results established the necessity of synchronously adjusting a group of dependent parameters: allowances for chest and back width, sleeve cap height, sleeve length, and armhole length. A quantitative data matrix was obtained, clearly illustrating the nature of the identified dependencies. The main outcome is an experimentally validated set of interrelated parameters, which disproves the intuitive approach to designing oversize silhouettes. The obtained data serves as a practical foundation for algorithmizing the design process, reducing the development cycle, and minimizing fit defects. The proposed methodology systematizes the construction process, moving it from the realm of empirical skill to a reproducible parametric approach.

Keywords: clothing design; oversize; extended shoulder line; parametric design; armhole-sleeve cap node; 3D modeling; Clo3D; digital avatar

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