2023, Vol. 8, No. 4. - go to content...

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Butko T.V., Masalova V.A. Systematization of techniques for constructing model structures with a one-piece sleeve and gusset of rational parameters. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/11TLKL423.pdf (in Russian).

Systematization of techniques for constructing model structures with a one-piece sleeve and gusset of rational parameters

Butko Tatiana Viktorovna
A.N. Kosygin Russian State University (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: butkotaty@mail.ru

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
A.N. Kosygin Russian State University (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Abstract. The cut of products with one-piece sleeves, despite existing since ancient times in folk clothing of various countries, has not lost its relevance to this day. Products with one-piece sleeves are distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and volumes. The article discusses the design of a model with a one-piece sleeve of a compact volume of a strict shape with a gusset.

A comparison was made of the manufacture of products with a one-piece sleeve and gusset using different methods. The choice of sleeve attachment method is justified as the most suitable for automated design of complex cut models. In addition, this method allows you to obtain variants of forms that are updated in accordance with the dynamics of the parameters of the current fashion trend. The applied methodology for designing a one-piece sleeve of a strict shape makes it possible to design gussets of various types with geometric accuracy: versatile, pairwise equilateral and equilateral.

One of the problematic results of the algorithm of standard methods for constructing model designs of products with a solid sleeve and gusset is the production of a gusset with parameters that worsen the appearance of the product, length up to the waist line, as well as to the elbow line of the sleeve. From an aesthetic point of view, this worsens the appearance of the product, demonstrating the technological connections of the product parts.

The article systematizes methods for reducing the length of the gusset along the side and bottom seam of the sleeve with improving the dynamic properties of the product. In addition, for the first time, a systematization of artistic-compositional and constructive-technological solutions for clothing models was carried out, which makes it possible to increase the parameter of the height of the sleeve head in products with a one-piece sleeve of a strict shape, for a visual approximation to the shape, quality of fit and dynamic compliance of a classic set-in sleeve.

The work reveals technologies that are relevant for both traditional manual and computer design of clothing designs with one-piece sleeves and gussets.

Keywords: one-piece sleeve with a gusset; types of gusset; height of the sleeve cap; improving the dynamics of the cut; the seam; form; product

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