2022, Vol. 7, No. 4. - go to content...

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Masalova V.A. Modification of the rapport pattern of a stripe or a cage on parallel folds of clothing. Journal of Clothing Science. 2022; 7(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/13TLKL422.pdf (in Russian).

Modification of the rapport pattern of a stripe or a cage on parallel folds of clothing

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Abstract. In the constructive modeling of clothing, the method of obtaining folds by parallel expansion of structural details is known. Without regard to the pattern of the fabric, authors sometimes name the types of folds obtained by parallel expansion (one-sided, bow or counter), and some authors sketch their schemes. The inner part of the folds can have its own construction options (fan or godet), but this article focuses on the effects created on the outer surface of the folds from materials with a stripe and check pattern. Sometimes the authors mention that there are single and group pleats, and some give calculations for a skirt with a circular pleat. Vertical folds are more often considered, although both oblique and horizontal folds can be spectacular. But even in the book on modeling clothes from checkered fabrics, no attention is paid to the technique of creating folds.

In this article, for the first time, various types of obtaining effects on folds created by parallel expansion are considered, with the combination of a material pattern in a strip or a cage on the folds of the fabric. At the same time, the rapport of the pattern on the surface of the folds can be preserved or replaced with a new one, which was the basis for systematizing the effects on the folds of clothing with the design of various sizes of the inner part of the folds. The article discusses the options for arranging a pattern with an inclined strip on the surface of the folds, while maintaining the angular direction, when the pattern of the stripes continues in the form of a solid line, and can form an inverted effect on the folds of the folds. The creation of an impressive effect is considered not due to the transformation of the size of the inner part of the fold, but due to a fixed turn of the folds with the replacement of their inner part by the outer one. The article creates a creative base for designers to use when designing folds in clothes made of striped or plaid materials. The article creates a creative base for use by fashion designers, but in addition, the described techniques for creating effects when designing folds in clothes made of striped or plaid materials can be applied in architecture and construction.

Keywords: stripe or cage; material pattern repeat; folds

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