2023, Vol. 8, No. 4. - go to content...

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Murashova N.V., Masalova V.A., Butko T.V. Gradation of complex model designs. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/13TLKL423.pdf (in Russian).

Gradation of complex model designs

Murashova Nadezhda Vladimirovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: mura-5@mail.ru

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Butko Tatiana Viktorovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: butkotaty@mail.ru

Abstract. The scaling grading method, which is fundamentally different from traditional methods used in clothing CAD, was developed in a universal engineering graphics system and patented in 2004. The gradation scaling method was tested on a different assortment of women’s, men’s and children’s clothing.

The technical task of the proposed gradation using the scaling method is to simplify calculations and increase the accuracy of gradation of any complex clothing designs, ensure consistency and proportionality of design details, maintain the norms for fitting the sleeve cap, as well as joining the geometric pattern of the fabric at the seams. A special feature of the method is that gradation is carried out simultaneously of all structural parts in a cell of a given size and height.

Gradation is performed in the automated mode of the engineering graphics system. The mathematical model of the method was developed in Excel spreadsheets. The organization of calculation and analysis, as well as the development of the «Initial Data» sheet, makes the system universal. The «Initial data» sheet allows the designer to select different increment values and easily adapt the mathematical model to the design of the initial size and height for grading it using the scaling method. Thanks to the connections embedded in the cell formulas, all further calculations change automatically: tables for calculating the difference between scaled and calculated parameters, as well as the results of analyzing the variability of parameters. Analysis of the gradation results is carried out in tabular form in digital terms, as well as in the form of histograms and graphs in the mathematical model of the method.

The article lists the advantages of the scaling method over gradation in clothing CAD. An example is given of the possibility of greater acceleration of the process when, in one cell, gradation of four model designs with different sleeve cuts, developed on the same basic design with a set-in sleeve, is simultaneously carried out. To visualize the results of gradation of a complex model structure with the «Umbrella» effect, the gradation is presented not in table cells, but in the assembled form of parts with the gradation results: by heights in one size, by size in one height, and assembly of structural parts from a harmonious diagonal of the spreadsheet.

Keywords: grading in CAD; analysis of grading results; designs of complex models; engineering graphics; clothing; size range; visualization of results

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