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Gavrilova O.E., Nikitina L.L. Systematization of approaches to designing women’s clothing with waste-free designs. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/16TLKL325.pdf (in Russian).

Systematization of approaches to designing women’s clothing with waste-free designs

Gavrilova Olga Evgenievna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: oegavrilova@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-3597-9143
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=792852

Nikitina Ludmila Leonidovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: naik@bk.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2687-2299
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=792899

Abstract. Currently, a significant problem is the irrational consumption of clothing, which is caused by fast fashion. In this regard, the modern fashion industry is called upon to solve a number of tasks related to the development of an environmental approach to the design and production of clothing and the development of sustainable fashion in general; the rethinking of the principles of clothes set structuring; and the formation of rational consumer behavior. The environmental approach to the design and production of clothing is implemented through such areas as recycling, the use of eco-friendly materials, the application of traditional shaping of folk costume, and the generalization of theoretical principles to systematize approaches for the design of waste-free construction. As a result of theoretical generalization, it has been established that flat (straight) cuts can be effectively implemented in serial and mass production of clothing. The results of the experimental work on the creation of three designs of different assortment units of women’s clothing confirmed the hypothesis put forward. In the process of the experimental work on the design of waste-free designs parts for mass production, an equally important task was solved — the substantiation of the calculation of their sizes, taking into account the sizes of the areas of the figures on which they are located. Based on the study and systematization of the data obtained, three approaches to obtaining waste-free designs were identified. The resulting samples of women’s clothing have a free shape, various silhouettes, have variable fixation of the supporting areas, do not restrict movement during operation, and do not require adjustment of the fit according to the figure. The systematization of approaches to designing products with waste-free constructions proposed by the authors will allow specialists at the enterprise to choose rationally an approach for obtaining a waste-free construction, depending on the product range, the existing basic product structures, the degree of volumetricity of the shape, and the intended variability of the product’s wear.

Keywords: waste-free design; flat cut; women’s clothing; unification; transformation; systematization; calculation

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