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Parsanov A.S., Krasina I.V., Tikhonova N.V., Tuntsev D.V., Nasretdinova A.S. Review of promising industrial hemp cultivars for the textile industry. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/19TLKL226.pdf (in Russian).

Review of promising industrial hemp cultivars for the textile industry

Parsanov Alexander Sergeevich
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: parsanov1982@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9573-1521
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=798098
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57128597500

Krasina Irina Vladimirovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: irina_krasina@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9448-121X
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=168091
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57128500200

Tikhonova Natalia Vasilyevna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: nata.tikhonova.81@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2241-869X
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=750903
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=57193534168

Tuntsev Dinis Vladimirovich
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: tuncev_d@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1842-5771
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=583589
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=56626138500

Nasretdinova Aziza Salavatovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: nasans1305@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1127-3560
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=916642
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=60266093200

Abstract. The article presents a review of modern cultivars of industrial hemp of domestic and foreign breeding. The relevance of the work is due to the need for the light industry to transition to environmentally friendly and renewable raw material sources. The aim of the study is to systematize data on the varietal composition of industrial hemp and assess the technological suitability of the fibre for textile production. The methods used include analytical review of scientific literature, regulatory and technical documentation, comparative analysis of morphological and physico-mechanical fibre characteristics, as well as statistical processing of field test data for the period 2019–2025. The results show that the content of bast fibre in the stems varies from 26 to 37 %, the yield of long fibre — from 16 to 35 %, the fineness of elementary fibres — from 19.0 to 22,4 µm, and the breaking load reaches 38 kgf. It was found that the highest quality indicators are demonstrated by the Russian cultivar «SEIM» (fibre content 37 %, long fibre yield 35 %, breaking load 38 kgf) and the Polish cultivar «Bialobrzeskie» (fibre content 33,1 %, fineness 22,4 µm, tensile strength 41–74 cN/tex). Dual-purpose cultivars («RODNIK», «NADEZHDA») are advisable for technical textiles and nonwoven materials. It is concluded that for the production of high-quality textile fibre and blended yarn, cultivars with a fibre content of at least 35 % and a long fibre yield of more than 30 % should be used. Modern processing technologies (cottonization, vortex spinning) allow efficient use of hemp fibre in blends with cotton at hemp content up to 50 %.

Keywords: industrial hemp; bast fibre; cultivar; textiles; cottonization; fibre fineness; breaking load

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