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Makarova T.L., Litvinova E.A. Bionic shapes in avant-guard collections of modern designers. Journal of Clothing Science. 2021; 6(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/20IVKL421.pdf (in Russian).

Bionic shapes in avant-guard collections of modern designers

Makarova Tatiana Lvovna
Moscow Art and Industry Institute, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: sunnyimage11@gmail.com
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=622882
ResearchGate: https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Tatiana_Makarova2

Litvinova Elena Aleksandrovna
Sava Mari, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: elenalittlle@mail.ru

Abstract. The article explores the use of bionic forms in modern costume design. Bionics is needed to understand the structure and principles of action of natural objects, and today this knowledge does not have a single classification in costume design. Our research complements suit design theory with new findings. It is advisable to trace the use of bionic forms in the avant-garde collections of Iris van Herpen, Stephane Rolland, Junya Watanabe, Yiqing Yin, Alexander McQueen, Victor & Rolf for the period from 2010 to 2016: in them one can most clearly highlight the «natural» stylization of the form. This allows designers to obtain extraordinary solutions: to identify new functional features and transformation of the form design, to use interesting elements of form and texture, transformation techniques, as well as harmonious color combinations. Using the example of the avant-garde collections of modern designers, an analysis of the use of bionic forms for the period from 2010 to 2016 is made. As a result of considering the avant-garde collections of modern designers by dividing them into two directions: stylization of the external form of a natural object and the use of the internal structure of a natural object, it was concluded that, despite the slight prevalence of the second direction, both directions are relevant today. In the last few years of the period studied, preference is given to the processing of the very structure of the natural form and its further stylization. With the advent of the latest materials and design technologies, the creation of a suit goes to a higher level: with the development of new synthetic fabrics and 3D printing, fantastic projects can be realized.

Keywords: bionics; avant-garde costume; costume; bionic shaping; bioform; biomorphism; modern design; costume design; contemporary designers; designer collections

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