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Ablaeva U.O. On the problem of the place of tobacco pouches in the Crimean Tatar culture. Journal of Clothing Science. 2024; 9(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/21IVKL124.pdf (in Russian).

On the problem of the place of tobacco pouches in the Crimean Tatar culture

Ablaeva Ulviye Osmanovnа
Crimean Engineering and Pedagogical University named after Fevzi Yakubov, Simferopol, Russia
E-mail: ulvieablaieva@gmail.com

Abstract. This text serves as an introduction into academic discourse, and a preliminary classification of, tobacco pouches, which important accessories of the material culture of the Crimean Tatars.

Research materials: Around three hundred tobacco pouches from the funds of nineteen Crimean, Russian and international museums and private collections as well as written and visual sources and catalogs of exhibitions.

Results and novelty of the research: for the first time, the present study of Crimean Tatar accessories named kese (i.e. tobacco pouch), on the one hand revealed many problems, but, on the other hand, demonstrated their cultural uniqueness. The vast majority of pouches have a high cultural-historical value based on their artistic embroidery with metallic (mostly gold) threads as well as their craftsmanship and interesting ornamental compositions. Pouches were often hand-made by future brides playing an important ritual role in wedding celebrations and having a deep symbolic meaning in the culture of interpersonal communication.

The present analysis of written, visual and material sources resulted in the creation of a preliminary classification of pouches mainly based on the correlation of the sizes and shapes of the objects studied. The accessories have been divided into two groups, with the 1st one including large flat pouches, and the 2nd including small flat and/or voluminous pouches. The second group consists of four subgroups: 2 (a) — shaped pouches of six types, 2 (b) — voluminous cylindrical pouches, 2 (c) — voluminous pouches-transformers, and 2 (d) — special type receptacles. Techniques of execution, pattern differences, and specific features of the pouches are analyzed using concrete examples. Accessories of the first group are comprised by wedding pouches (average size 30 cm in height), which were embroidered as one-of-a-kind item. Various types of small mass-produced pouches from the II group (average size 13 cm in height) were part of a special gift fund which was used to distribute presents to matchmakers, distinguished guests, winners of wedding competitions, and assistants at wedding celebrations.

A comparative historical analysis of the Crimean Tatar pouches juxtaposing them with similar items in other cultures testifies to the formers’ diversity of forms, the exceptional richness of their decor, and their significance in the national wedding ritual. The main ornamental composition of all types of analyzed pouches is based on the sacred motif of the World Tree.

Along with the classification of pouches, the study resulted in conclusions about their multi-functionality and the multiple meanings of the term kese. The study described the pouches’ main and additional decoration techniques. The ambiguous differentiation of the items’ functional affiliation remained an unresolved problem, which presently seems difficult to solve due to a number of factors.

Keywords: Crimean Tatars; traditional culture; tobacco pouch; gold embroidery; ornamental compositions; gift; wedding ceremony

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