2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Mezentseva T.V., Masalova V.A. Systematization of techniques for designing the position of the base hatching point, ensuring the combination of striped and checkered fabric patterns on the seams of clothing. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/24TLKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Systematization of techniques for designing the position of the base hatching point, ensuring the combination of striped and checkered fabric patterns on the seams of clothing

Mezentseva Tatyana Vasilyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: 02taty@mail.ru

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Abstract. Initially, the authors of the article used shading for design tasks for burlap pockets in unit-by-unit technological processing schemes, adapting the shading of the engineering graphics system. Subsequently, to combine elements of a striped or checkered fabric pattern on the seams of a product during constructive modeling, a programmable shading technique corresponding to the pattern of the material was created, with the development of techniques for designing the geometric position of the basic shading points on structural parts, which allows you to visually assess the quality and quickly eliminate defects in pattern registration. The article presents seventeen developed techniques for designing the position of the basic shading points in the process of shading model clothing structures, and provides a brief description of each of the techniques. The technique of primary shading of MK parts is described in more detail, since it is applicable in any design made of fabric with complex repeat. Extended attention in the article is paid to examples that are especially significant based on the results of combining a fabric pattern with complex repeat.

Based on a collection of models from various sources, the article presents the variety of arrangement of fabric patterns in the photo of the details of the front and set-in sleeves. Despite the different location of the fabric pattern on the parts, the basic hatching point for the front and set-in sleeves is common and is located on the front depending on the position of the darts, and the hatching angle is entered according to the location of the pattern on the design details according to the model. In products with raglan sleeves, a straight line of armhole and hem is designed, along which there is a stripe or check pattern with a different combination of directions. For all cases, along the upper seam of a raglan sleeve, the stripe of the fabric pattern is mirrored, but in the area of the shoulder seam from the notch at the end of the shoulder to the neck line, it is necessary to edit the position of the shoulder seam, placing it on the bisector of the two directions of the sleeve halves, to combine the material pattern in the shoulder area seam. Particular attention should be paid to techniques that ensure the combination of stripe and check patterns along the upper seam of a one-piece sleeve at any location of the pattern relative to the center of the front, which is not done in any of the existing techniques.

Keywords: strip; check; basic shading points; sleeve cuts; technological processing schemes; textile; drawing

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