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Chizhova N.V., Chalenko E.A. Formation of the design process for products with complex sleeve cuts. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/29TLKL425.pdf (in Russian).

Formation of the design process for products with complex sleeve cuts

Chizhova Natalia Viktorovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: nvchizhova@mail.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=876885

Chalenko Elena Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: ele-ela@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4252-959X
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=470700
WoS: https://www.webofscience.com/wos/author/rid/E-7383-2014
SCOPUS: https://www.scopus.com/authid/detail.url?authorId=56910178800

Abstract. The article is devoted to the features of designing and processing products with complex sleeve cuts, such as raglan, one-piece and combined cuts. The authors draw attention to the historical retrospective, noting the modern surge of interest in silhouette solutions, known as «power dressing», which arose during the 80s of the XX century. A detailed description of the types of sleeves of various cuts and methods of their constructive elaboration is given, special attention is paid to the methods of technological processing of products that allow adapting to various conditions of industrial production. The design and technological differences between strict and free-form products, characterized by freedom of fit and the depth of the armhole, are highlighted, similarities and differences in approaches to the technological processing of such products are revealed. The schemes of processing and assembling products with various types of hands are presented, supplemented with original drawings and drawings with explanations of design features and processing methods. Special attention is paid to the consideration of products with sleeves of a combined cut, their constructive solutions and options for articulating parts that offer maximum opportunities for creative solutions, but at the same time create serious design and technological challenges. It is concluded that it is important to take into account the volume of the product in the armhole area when forming the technological process, and recommendations have been developed for the rational design of the manufacturing process, which leads to a reduction in the development time of new models and lower production costs.

Keywords: sleeve cut; silhouette of clothing; raglan sleeve; one-piece sleeve; sleeve of combined cut; strict shape; soft shape; gusset

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