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Mavlonov M.Kh., Chursin V.I. Optimization of combined tanning technology based on plant extracts and zinc salts. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/17TLKL325.pdf (in Russian).

Optimization of combined tanning technology based on plant extracts and zinc salts

Mavlonov Mirzoolim Khikmatovich
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
LLC «Izvarino Pharma», Moscow, Russia
E-mail: mirzo_mavlonov@mail.ru

Chursin Vyacheslav Ivanovich
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: mars8848@rambler.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=475787

Abstract. Interest in technologies that exclude the use of chromium tanning compounds is mainly driven by environmental concerns. New technological solutions aim to achieve hydrothermal stability levels as close as possible to the roasting temperature of chrome — tanned leather. One promising research direction is combined tanning, based on the use of plant tannins and metal salts. This work presents the results of experimental studies on combined tanning using different types of plant extracts and zinc salts in the production of upper shoe leathers. The study objects included plant tannins representing two classes of tannins — hydrolyzable (chestnut extract) and condensed (quebracho extract) — as well as zinc sulfate and zinc acetate. Optimization was performed based on the determination of grain penetration degree, hydrothermal stability temperature, and mechanical properties of the tanned semi-finished product and crust before finishing. Optimal tanning variants were tested, involving different sequences of introducing tannins into the tanning solution, as well as tanning with a combined tanning agent obtained through synthesis.

The experiments showed that, regardless of the type of plant extract and zinc salt, the highest hydrothermal stability temperature was obtained when the zinc salt was applied before the plant tannin. It was concluded that with this sequence, the interaction proceeds according to the scheme: collagen — zinc — tannins — zinc — collagen, where zinc ions first bind to collagen and then form complexes with tannin molecules.

The presented data demonstrate the dependence of hydrothermal stability and the physical-mechanical properties of the semi-finished product on the type of tannins, zinc salt, and the order of component addition. The optimal combined tanning technology ensures good penetration of the plant extract into the grain and produces a semi-finished product with a hydrothermal stability temperature of at least 85°C and strength properties meeting the requirements for chromium-free upper shoe leather.

Keywords: quebracho extract; chestnut extract; zinc sulfate; zinc acetate; combined tanning

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