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Kirsanov K.A. The laws of costume and the problems of stratification markers. Journal of Clothing Science. 2018; 3(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/02IVKL318.pdf (in Russian).

The laws of costume and the problems of stratification markers

Kirsanov Konstantin Aleksandrovich
Institute of world civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: allprof@mail.ru

Abstract. The article proposed for attention is a direct continuation of the previously published material on the study of the problematics of the formation of the laws of costume. Previously proposed laws had a theoretical-systemological character and created prerequisites for further consideration of costume issues from the standpoint of the methodology of studying this subject area. At the same time it was proved that costume can not be considered within the framework of classical methodology and it should be based on the ideas of neoclassicism. This article develops the position of costume as a neoclassical science and is built on the position that at the present time there is a radical transition to a new costume concept. The transition is caused by a change in economic conditions and the formation of a fundamentally new situation in the world. It is proposed to distinguish seven levels of the economy with the formation of the fullness of the wardrobe, as a marker of the stratification division of society.

It is proposed to allocate a beggarly economy (one suit for all purposes or spheres of life), a poor economy (two suits — one for everyday life and work, and another a festive one), a lower-middle economy (several suits, one for household situations, others for work, third for holidays and also for the implementation of positioning-predetermining and axiological-positioning functions), medium-average economy (several suits, and there are suits for all predefined functions and they vary depending on the mode), the top- average economy (several suits, and there are suits for all predefined functions with several options and they vary depending not only on fashion, but sudden desires of owners or to change the psychological state), a rich economy (many suits, and there are suits for all predefined functions and they are chosen to be worn depending on the situation), elite economy (many suits, and there are suits for all predefined functions and they change several times a day). It is shown that the scientific problems of costumeology form a new system of views on the civilizational development of Mankind. A new narrow in the neoclassical costume definition was proposed, which allowed to formulate three private laws of costume.

The first law of costume is called «the law of costume adaptation» and says that when moving from a poor economy to an average economy (in terms of equivalent capital) and even more to a rich economy, it forms a fundamentally different costume concept of constructing the ranks of a particular person, which predetermines the emergence of a number of contradictions in in particular those related to psychological inertia and the existing competences for the formation of a new personological image. The second law of costume is called «the law of costume diversity» and states that when a person satisfies the level of variability (according to the law of costume adaptation) to new circumstances, a new costume concept is formed, which provides for a transition to multi-level conformity of preferences, with each sphere tsakosta) of life, their own original ones are created on the one hand, and on the other hand generally accepted ideas about the fullness of the wardrobe, taking into account the conceptions of fashion and beauty. The third law is called «the law of costume markers» and claims that costume diversity can serve as a marker of the economic state of the individual (social group and even society as a whole), which allows to systematize individuals (social groups and even society as a whole) and on the basis of this law to make estimates poverty / wealth and compare countries by level of development.

Keywords: laws of costume; theoretical and systemological character; classical methodology; neoclassic; economic conditions; a new situation in the world; seven levels of the economy; stratification division of society; beggarly economy; poor economy; everyday life; work, holiday; lower-middle economy; positioning-predetermining function; axiological-positioning function; medium to medium-sized economy; predefined function; upper-middle economy; sudden desires; master; psychological condition; rich economy; wearing; elite economy; set of suits; system of views; civilizational development; private laws of costume; law of costume; costume adaptation; equivalent capital; costume concept; ranks of a particular person; contradictions; psychological inertia; competence; personological appearance; costumological variety; the level of variability; multi-level conformity of preferences; tsakost; fullness of the wardrobe; fashion and beauty; costumed marker; systematization; poverty/wealth assessment; «Naked man»; set of technical devices; food; work; rank of positioning; personality; three-factor model; biosocio-intellectual system

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