2023, Vol. 8, No. 1. - go to content...

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Goncharova N.V., Titova I.I. Studying the possibility of using water-alkaline plant extracts as coloring agents. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/05TLKL123.pdf (in Russian).

Studying the possibility of using water-alkaline plant extracts as coloring agents

Goncharova Natalia Viktorovna
East Siberia State University of Technology and Management, Ulan-Ude, Russia
E-mail: natvic@list.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=300500

Titova Irina Ivanovna
East Siberia State University of Technology and Management, Ulan-Ude, Russia
E-mail: ititova_u@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-0809-3585
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=451318

Abstract. The authors studied the possibility of using aqueous-alkaline plant extracts obtained from substandard raw materials and waste wood processing as coloring agents for textile fibers and biomaterials. In the course of the research, an assessment was made of the influence of the parameters of the dyeing process on the quality of the resulting color on the example of cotton, wool and nylon fibers. It has been established that plant extracts obtained from the bark of Siberian larch, Scotch pine, Scotch spruce and poplar exhibit the properties of mordant dyes, while the sequence of treatments and the presence of equalizers in the dyeing process affect the uniformity of the depth of the resulting color. The use of polyvalent metal salts as a mordant in the dyeing process makes it possible to expand the color spectrum observed at the output shades. The color strength of textile fibers in dry friction is 4 points, in wet friction — 3–4 points, and the tensile strength ranges from 68.8–82.4 MPa, which meets the requirements of GOST. The high affinity of alkaline plant extracts for textile fibers allows them to be recommended for use as coloring agents, with the following conditional dyeing parameters: decoction (of textile fibers) in a surfactant solution at a temperature of 400ºC, washing with clean water, dyeing with the addition of equalizers at boiling point, etching with salts of polyvalent metals, cooling and washing with clean water. Studies have shown that alkaline plant extracts obtained from low-grade bark waste can be used as dyeing agents in the textile industry.

Keywords: textile fibers; alkaline plant extracts; dyeing; pickling; dry and wet friction; breaking strength; textile industry

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