2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Masalova V.A., Butko T.V. Development of conditions for constructing darts in the design of geometric compositions in clothing. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/07TLKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Development of conditions for constructing darts in the design of geometric compositions in clothing

Masalova Valentina Anatolʹevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Butko Tatʹyana Viktorovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: butkotaty@mail.ru

Abstract. As a result of the analysis of the content of specialized literature and the capabilities of CAD clothing, it was established that there is no description and application of methods for translating darts that provide aesthetic options for compositions in clothing models from fabrics with a geometric pattern. Existing information in the press and on Internet sites is not reliable, reliable and exhaustive.

The article presents a method for translating darts using programmable hatching corresponding to the pattern of the material in a strip or a cage, which is based on the developed methods for selecting the positions of the base points of hatching, which ensure the alignment of elements of fabric patterns on the seam lines of model clothing designs.

The process of combining the geometric rapport of a fabric pattern is considered on the example of designing a dart seam. To obtain an aesthetic result of alignment, options are proposed for determining the position of the base line of the middle of a new dart before its direct translation: along the axis of symmetry of the pattern of the strip and the cage; perpendicular to the direction of the strip of fabric in the direction corresponding to the model; on the bisector of two coinciding directions of the pattern; on vertical, inclined and parallel reliefs; on radial articulations passing through the inner ends of the original darts.

The article describes a method for obtaining a compositional effect, in which the strip of the fabric pattern runs along one side of the dart, and the pattern is located at an angle to the other side of the dart, while taking into account the properties of the fabric pattern and the choice of a specific side of the dart to align it with the material repeat strip.

Thus, the article provides a description of the various conditions that must be taken into account before translating darts in order to ensure the aesthetics of artistic and compositional solutions for clothing made from fabrics with geometric rapport.

Keywords: strip; cage; combination of pattern; material pattern rapport; translation of darts; textile; cloth

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