2025, Vol. 10, No. 4. - go to content...

Permanent address of this page - https://kostumologiya.ru/en/07ivkl425.html

Метаданные этой статьи так же доступны на русском языке

DOI: 10.15862/07IVKL425 (https://doi.org/10.15862/07IVKL425)

Full article in PDF format (file size: 1.8 MB)

For citation:

Nechvaloda E.E. The evolution of the decoration of the shirts of the Krasnoufim Udmurts in the late 19th — early 20th centuries (based on the collections of S.I. Rudenko). Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/07IVKL425.pdf (in Russian). DOI: 10.15862/07IVKL425

The evolution of the decoration of the shirts of the Krasnoufim Udmurts in the late 19th — early 20th centuries (based on the collections of S.I. Rudenko)

Nechvaloda Elena Evgenievna
Subdivision of the Ufa federal Research Centre of the Russian Academy of Sciences, Ufa, Russia
R.G. Kuzeev Institute for Ethnological Studies
E-mail: pishi-nikonor@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-5267-4830
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=74586

Abstract. A small group of Udmurts living in the upper reaches of the Ufa River (in the Krasnoufimsky district of the Sverdlovsk region), settled among the numerically dominant Mari population, had a costume complex in the second half of the twentieth century. It was not possible to identify any specific features or clothing features characteristic only of the Krasnoufim Udmurts during the expeditions carried out in the second half of the twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. The erasure of ethnic traditions in clothing was the result of deep assimilation processes that took place among the Krasnoufim Udmurts. However, the transition of the Udmurts, who lived in the upper reaches of the Ufa River, to the costume of the Ural Mari people is a relatively late phenomenon. The materials we have studied indicate that back in the second half of the 19th — early 20th century, the Krasnoufim Udmurts possessed distinctive features in their clothing that distinguished them not only from the Mari people living next to them, but also from other local groups of the Udmurt ethnic group. And in the decor of the shirts, this specificity was most clearly manifested. Therefore, in this article, we have chosen the traditions of the decorative design of the shirts of the Krasnoufim Udmurts as the object of research, and the processes of their evolution as the subject, which clearly reflect the gradual formation of a unified costume complex with the Ural Mari people. The main materials for the analysis were objects from the collections of S.I. Rudenko, collected in 1912 in Krasnoufimsky district of Perm Gubernia.

Keywords: Udmurts of Krasnoufimsky; clothing; shirt decor; applicative ornament; evolution; collections of S.I. Rudenko; ethnic interactions

Download article in PDF format