2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Getmantseva V.V., Masalova V.A. Calculations and geometric constructions when designing effects in clothes made of fabric with a complex rapport. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/09TLKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Calculations and geometric constructions when designing effects in clothes made of fabric with a complex rapport

Getmantseva Varvara Vladimirovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: getmantseva@inbox.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=540375

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Abstract. The database for products made of striped and plaid materials in general has 1152 unique effects created on the seams of clothing. Most of the effects are designed on the basis of mathematical calculations and geometric constructions.

The article describes the effect of the «Reversed Angle», in which the strip of the pattern runs at an angle to the center of the parts, forming a continuous spiral around the torso with the exact alignment of the pattern on the side seams. For a diagonally located strip or cage on the product, combined at both side seams, horizontal rapport is important. In a model that contains the Flattened Corner effect, the sum of the angles that fit the seam of the stripes must be 180°. To create a developed angle at all seams of the structure at a given angle of inclination of the strip of the fabric pattern, it is necessary to accurately calculate the changing width of the product as a multiple of the horizontal rapport, which leads to an adjustment of the armhole. Without changing the width of the product selected by the MC, it is possible to achieve the multiplicity of horizontal rapport by calculating, and not by setting the angle of the direction of the diagonal of the material strip.

The effect «Calculated angle» considered in the article is used to combine patterns of fabrics of different rapport at the seams of products. A complete combination of the pattern of materials with different weft repeat is created as a result of calculating the angle of the direction of the strip or its geometric construction. To calculate the direction of the strip, it is necessary to determine the width of the strip of the pattern of each of the parts to be mounted. As a result of calculating the direction angle of the strip, we obtain the same result of the analytical calculation and geometric construction with the exact connection of strips with different rapport at the seam of the structure.

Examples of the use of similar calculations in other effects are given.

Keywords: stripe; cage; constructive modeling; matching the fabric pattern on the seams; «Calculated angle» effect; cloth; products

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