2026, Vol. 11, No. 2. - go to content...

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DOI: 10.15862/10TLKL226 (https://doi.org/10.15862/10TLKL226)

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Lunina E.V., Zewde E.N. Traditional costume in Ethiopia today. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/10TLKL226.pdf (in Russian). DOI: 10.15862/10TLKL226

Traditional costume in Ethiopia today

Lunina Ekaterina Vasil’evna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: katushty@hotmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4925-746X
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=363910

Zewde Eyob Niguse
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: eyobged97@gmail.com

Abstract. The article presents a comprehensive analysis of traditional Ethiopian clothing as a phenomenon of material culture reflecting ethnic identity, religious traditions and the social structure of modern society. The relevance of the research is due to the growing interest in intangible cultural heritage and the search for sustainable forms of fashion in the context of globalization. Special attention is paid to handmade cotton fabrics and tibeb ornaments, which serve as an ethnic marker and are in demand today by the Ethiopian population. The authors consider the main types of Ethiopian costume — gabi, netella, and shemma fabric, their manufacturing and operation features, symbols, and modern functioning. It is shown that traditional clothing is not archaic, but is actively used in everyday and ceremonial practice, fulfilling a dual function: it unites the population of the country within the framework of a common culture and at the same time preserves ethnic diversity. The article also examines the gender division of labor in the manufacture of traditional clothing fabrics, regional differences in costume among the Amhara, Tigray, Oromu and Dorse peoples, as well as the influence of Christian and Muslim religion on functional and decorative solutions in clothing. The authors substantiate the fact that the Ethiopian traditional costume is an independent cultural code that demonstrates the sustainability of hand weaving in the face of globalization and the high potential for further use by the people of Ethiopia in various life situations, from everyday to festive. The results presented in the article may be useful to specialists in the field of costume history, design, ethnography and cultural heritage.

Keywords: Ethiopian costume; traditional costume; tibeb; gabi; netella; shemma; hand weaving

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