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Khokhaeva Z.Z., Gogaevа O.V. Analysis of development and composition of the main forms of traditional japanese women’s suit. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/13TLKL420.pdf (in Russian).

Analysis of development and composition of the main forms of traditional japanese women’s suit

Khokhaeva Zelyana Zaurovna
North-Ossetian state university after K.L. Khetagurov, Vladikavkaz, Russia
E-mail: khokhayevaz@mail.ru

Gogaevа Olga Vitalevna
North-Ossetian state university after K.L. Khetagurov, Vladikavkaz, Russia
E-mail: Gogaeva_ov_@mail.ru

Abstract. The article is devoted to the actual study of the main types of costume that appeared on the territory of Japan and borrowed from other peoples in the period from the VIII century to the end of the XX century. The analysis of the historical development of the main forms and types of traditional Japanese costume is carried out and the stages of kimono formation are determined. Kimono, the traditional national costume of the Japanese, was the everyday clothing of all classes and was finally formed at the turn of the XIX–XX centuries.

Analysis of the composition allowed to determine the compositional principles of Japanese kimono and means of harmonization: a uniform T-shaped; symmetrical or asymmetrical decor; multiple accents, scene semantic relationship of the accents and the harmony of related colors. the color scheme is based on both the nuanced development of color and the harmony of contrast-related colors; the complex-developing, dynamic nature of the rhythm; the contrasting juxtaposition of design lines and decor lines. Design features, proportions and color preferences during the historical stages of their development, the influence of borrowings from eastern and Western cultures are revealed. The object of the study is the history of Japanese national costume. The history of costume is closely connected with the development of society, both socio-political, economic and cultural. In one of the theories of the uniqueness of the Japanese traditional costume called «The Way of the costume», it is noted that the kimono acts as one of the means to achieve harmony in the world, and the accuracy and correctness in putting on the kimono contributes to the increase of spirituality and morality. Seasonality, reflected in color and ornament, allows a person to feel harmony and unity with nature. The kimono tightly wraps the body from top to bottom, which forms humility in a person, and tying the obi belt contains a feeling of love, since in ancient times the belt was the guardian of the soul.

The analysis of the compositional solution of the kimono makes it possible to determine the features of its construction, the means of harmonizing the costume, the principles of the consistency of the elements of the Japanese costume.

As material sources, engravings, reproductions with images of costumes, as well as atlases of photographs of recreated types of clothing of past eras, samples of fabrics and costumes of the early 20th century were used. The research results can be used in scientific and pedagogical practice, as well as in the development of new collections of modern clothing in ethnic style.

Keywords: Japanese costume; kimono; kosode; costume composition; costume design; color scheme; fashion

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