2025, Vol. 10, No. 2. - go to content...

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Fomina O.P., Lozovskaya A.A., Goncharova A.K. Technology of making folds based on knitting incomplete rows of loops. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/13TLKL225.pdf (in Russian).

Technology of making folds based on knitting incomplete rows of loops

Fomina Olga Petrovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: fomina-op@rguk.ru

Lozovskaya Alina Alekseevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: lozovsk01@mail.ru

Goncharova Angelika Konstantinovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: Zhelyayo@mail.ru

Abstract. The article discusses the main types of folds and provides diagrams of their structure with the definition of individual structural sections. A comparative analysis of the methods of forming folds on the surface of textile materials has been carried out, which has shown that the most optimal of them is a method based on the use of the structure of a knitted material, which makes it possible to form folds during knitting without additional technological operations. The main common disadvantage of existing methods of forming vertically folded folds in the knitting process is the limitation of the width of the produced part with folds, since these methods require increasing the width of the knitted fabric in the fold area by three times. The technology of crease formation based on the method of knitting incomplete loop rows on a knitting machine is proposed. This technology allows you to knit three-layer structures of all types of folds on the same section of the knitting machine needle bed. At the same time, the beginning and end of the crease formation can be carried out both on the outer section of the knitted part, and anywhere in its inner plane. Possible changes in the shape and appearance of one-sided folds are shown, depending on the type of interlacing in its structural sections. The conditions necessary for the implementation of the technology of crease formation by the proposed method are formulated. The technology of producing a three-layer one-sided fold on a universal flat knitting machine is presented. Based on this technology, a knitting program was formed, which was implemented on a two-bar flat knitting machine with electronic control CMS 502 ki E 7.2 from Stoll when developing a real knitted product.

Keywords: folds; incomplete loop rows; three-layer section; loop structure; laying depth; fold line; weave Jersy that is worked out through the needle

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