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Sirotina I.L., Gladysheva M.V., Loseva G.V., Minichkin P.D., Muchkaeva Yu.A. The semiotics of costume design in the modern ethnocultural space. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/15IVKL326.pdf (in Russian).

The semiotics of costume design in the modern ethnocultural space

Sirotina Irina L`vovna
National Research Ogarev Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russia
E-mail: sirotinail@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4498-5529
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=173870

Gladysheva Margarita Viktorovna
National Research Ogarev Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russia
E-mail: nikel_its_me@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0009-6626-685X
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1080040

Loseva Galina Vladimirovna
National Research Ogarev Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russia
E-mail: aolesj@mail.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0000-2150-7271

Minichkin Pavel Dmitrievich
National Research Ogarev Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russia
E-mail: mini4ckin.paw@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6575-4474
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1085426

Muchkaeva Yuliya Andreevna
National Research Ogarev Mordovia State University, Saransk, Russia
E-mail: yudemyashkina@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6185-2475
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1139383

Abstract. The article examines the main scientific approaches to studying the “symbolic capital” of the national Finno-Ugric costume, which reflects the worldview of the ethnic group and plays an important role in storing and transmitting information in traditional culture. The paper compares the pan-ethnic traditions and regional specifics of the costumes of the Mordvins, Udmurts, Finns, Komi people, and other peoples; it reveals the semantic content of the symbolic system of the national costume, much of which is also used in modern clothing design; and it analyses some modes of its actualisation using the example of collections created by staff and students of the Institute of National Culture at the N. P. Ogarev Mordovian State University. The article’s material has scientific novelty in terms of the perspective from which the problem is examined and the empirical material used. The study was conducted from the perspectives of semiotics and cultural philosophy. The work was carried out within the framework of a comprehensive interdisciplinary approach that examines the «symbolic capital» of the national Finno-Ugric costume; it is based on the principle of systemacity, which determined the set of appropriate research methods: descriptive and explanatory methods, methods of system analysis and comparison in working with costume collections created in an ethno-style. Comprehensive work, which includes scientific research, theoretical generalizations, and practical work on creating design collections in an ethno-style, addresses the task of defining the semiotic code of the Finno-Ugric civilization and determining its artistic and aesthetic essence. The national Finno-Ugric costume, viewed from a given perspective, is considered a value-based, multifunctional phenomenon of the spiritual and practical activity of the peoples of this group, capable of expressing their interests and needs, as well as the characteristics of their mentality and ethnoself-awareness. The materials of the article can be used in conducting semiotic research in the field of costume design and decorative and applied arts.

Keywords: costume design; Finno-Ugric world; ethnosuit; ethnomoda; ethno-style; motifs of Mordovian folk costume; costume collections