2020, Vol. 5, No. 3. - go to content...

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Kamalieva A.S. An old technology of making Bashkir outerwear. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/16TLKL320.pdf (in Russian).

An old technology of making Bashkir outerwear

Kamalieva Aigul Salavatovna
Institute of education development of the Republic of Bashkortostan, Ufa, Russia
E-mail: kamalievavak@yandex.ru

Abstract. The article highlights the ancient technologies of cutting and making upper Bashkir clothing. This article is a continuation of familiarization with the traditional methods of making Bashkir clothing, which began in the previous issue of the magazine «Kostumologiya» (https://kostumologiya.ru/16TLKL220.html). Previously, information was provided about folk methods of sewing national Bashkir dresses.

The content of the article includes the main results of studies of the constructive-compositional structure of Bashkir clothing, carried out by the author for more than 20 years. Full-scale samples were studied in museums and private collections of the Republic of Bashkortostan, neighboring regions, St. Petersburg, etc. The author presents a general description of the appearance and cut of Bashkir clothing – Yelyan, Bishmet, Chekmen, Cossacks, fur coats. The materials of manufacture, types of decorative elements are described. The illustrative series gives an idea of the peculiarities of the compositional construction of the Bashkir outerwear.

The author discloses methods of protecting a person in difficult climatic conditions by means of a convenient, ergonomic design of individual parts of clothing – a collar, a sleeve. The influence of such factors as lifestyle and nature of work on the development of the design of outerwear is shown.

The technology of making the Bashkir outerwear is highlighted, in particular, the processing of the welt pocket, the bottom of the sleeve and several methods of processing the cuts of the side and bottom of the product are described in detail. The schemes of processing the listed nodes are presented.

The article is addressed to specialists in the field of clothing design with knowledge in the field of garment technology. The material will also be useful for individual craftsmen engaged in the manufacture of Bashkir folk stage clothes, dance clothes for professionals and by orders of the population.

Keywords: a costume; a decoration; the Bashkir costume; the Bashkir clothing; dresses; Bashkortostan; a tradition; a technique; design; treatment of knots

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