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Berezova M.A., Belko T.V. The development of costume frame systems from the 15th to the 21st century. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/16IVKL225.pdf (in Russian).

The development of costume frame systems from the 15th to the 21st century

Berezova Marina Andreyevna
Volga Region State University of Service, Togliatty, Russia
E-mail: berezova-m@list.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=837365

Belko Tatiana Vasilyevna
Volga Region State University of Service, Togliatty, Russia
E-mail: belko@tolgas.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=273007

Abstract. The article is devoted to the study of the development of costume frame systems from the XV to the XXI century and aims to identify how structures, approaches to their design and the semantic load of the frame have changed in different epochs — from a hidden supporting structure to an open architectonic form. The study of the development of frame structures made it possible to systematize frame forms based on functional, artistic and technological transformations, highlighting four stages: the formation and development of functional frame systems in the costume of the XV–XIX centuries; artistic and engineering experiments in frame forms of the 20th century; the formation of open frame structures as an independent means of expression in the 21st century; the digital transformation of the frame as an element of modern fashion. The trend towards the integration of wireframe solutions into interdisciplinary artistic practices at the intersection of fashion, engineering and digital technologies is revealed. The present study combines a historical and typological analysis of the evolution of costume frame systems with the development of four key design strategies for modern clothing design: the integration of a historical silhouette with internal structural elements; the design of futuristic «shells» based on hidden frame systems; the use of open frame structures as a visual accent referring to traditional forms; the use of digital technologies (virtual modeling, 3D printing, parametric generation) to create new wireframe shapes. These approaches expand the horizons of design practice and open up prospects for further research on the tectonics of frame systems at the junction of traditional and digital technologies.

Keywords: frame systems; suit tectonics; design approaches; design of frame clothing; digital frame; open suit system; closed suit system

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