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Sharipova R.G., Petrosova I.A., Andreeva E.G., Korobetskaia N.A. Research of the composition of the men and women wardrobe from the position of unity and «unisex» style. Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/17IVKL420.pdf (in Russian).

Research of the composition of the men and women wardrobe from the position of unity and «unisex» style

Sharipova Regina Galimovna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: lordofbees@yandex.ru

Petrosova Irina Aleksandrovna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: petrosova-ia@rguk.ru
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=606302

Andreeva Elena Georgievna
Russian state university named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: andreeva-eg@rguk.ru
РИНЦ: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=259825

Korobetskaia Nadezhda Aleksandrovna
Innovative research and production center of textile and light industry, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: n.korobetskaya@inpctlp.ru

Abstract. This article presents an analysis of such a socio-cultural phenomenon as» unisex», the stages of its historical development, the impact on all social institutions and public spheres. The concept of gender, gender transformation and gender identity in the context of education, popular culture, clothing and others are considered. It is on the analysis of socio-cultural and political prerequisites for the development of gender neutrality in clothing, based revealed that at the turn of the XX–XXI centuries, at least 3 significant stages occurred that influenced gender fluctuations and, as a result, non-traditional vestimental practices in society: the correction of traditional gender stereotypes of the 1940s–50s, the androgynous style of the late 1960s and the tendency to abandon a clear division into male and female since the late 1990s. The authors consider modern research in the field of designing «unisex» clothing, such as the creation of enlarged size groups for the design of the shoulder range of «unisex» clothing, the development of «unisex» clothing designs as a combination of two or more sizes within a complete group. The authors undertake a study of various types of clothing and on the basis of standards and various sources presented a classification of gender-neutral clothing and knitwear for household purposes, reflecting a more modern view of the wardrobe of binary and non-binary persons. The article analyzes such a universal item of clothing as jeans, the authors compiled and illustrated the classification of jeans according to the degree of fit to the legs. This research is necessary for use in retail, better understanding of the range of «unisex» clothing by consumers, as well as its use in the process of designing clothing, namely in the design and technological preparation of production.

Keywords: gender neutrality; non-binary; unisex clothing; classification; clothing design; fashion; wardrobe

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