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Repina M.V., Khammatova E.A. Effect of argon plasma treatment on the breaking load and abrasion resistance of hemp fiber knitted fabric: structural rationale based on X-ray phase analysis and FTIR spectroscopy data. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/17TLKL326.pdf (in Russian).

Effect of argon plasma treatment on the breaking load and abrasion resistance of hemp fiber knitted fabric: structural rationale based on X-ray phase analysis and FTIR spectroscopy data

Repina Marina Viktorovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia

Khammatova Elmira Aydarovna
Kazan National Research Technological University, Kazan, Russia
E-mail: RepinaMV@corp.knrtu.ru

Abstract. The effect of low-temperature plasma treatment in an argon medium on the strength properties of a knitted fabric with a surface density of 195 g/m2, consisting of 100 % industrial hemp fibers, has been studied. The treatment was carried out in a vacuum chamber at a discharge frequency of 13,56 MHz and a residual pressure in the chamber of 18–20 Pa for 9 minutes, the consumption of plasma-forming gas was 2000 cm3/s. It has been established that plasma treatment leads to a pronounced strengthening of the structure of hemp knitwear: the breaking load along the stitch columns increases by 22,0 %, reaching 244,81 N; across the stitch columns — by 5,0 % (124,91 N); and the wear resistance according to the Martindale method increases by 12,0 %, up to 242 cycles before failure. According to X‑ray phase analysis, the full width of the diffraction maximum (FWHM) decreased from 1,59° in the control sample to 1,52° in the sample treated with argon for 9 minutes, which indicates coarsening and ordering of crystallites and an increase in the degree of crystallinity of cellulose. The size of the crystal lattice after plasma treatment was 55,7 Å, which is 4,7 % larger than the size of the crystal lattice of the untreated cellulose sample. The consolidation of the crystalline fraction limits the mobility of macromolecules and the redistribution of stresses in the fiber, which explains the increase in mechanical strength. IR‑Fourier spectroscopy data confirmed the preservation of the glycosidic bridge band (1160 cm-¹), which rules out the destruction of cellulose macromolecules under the selected plasma treatment regime. It has been shown that plasma treatment is a controlled method for improving the strength properties of textiles made from technical hemp fibers.

Keywords: hemp fiber; knitted fabric; low-temperature plasma; argon; breaking load; abrasion resistance; X-ray diffraction; FTIR spectroscopy; crystallinity index