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Zakudryavskaya V.A., Sayko E.A. Fashion and theater in stage costumes by artists of the «World of Art» and avant-garde artists in the «Russian Ballet of S.P. Diaghilev». Journal of Clothing Science. 2020; 5(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/20IVKL220.pdf (in Russian).

Fashion and theater in stage costumes by artists of the «World of Art» and avant-garde artists in the «Russian Ballet of S.P. Diaghilev»

Zakudryavskaya Viktoria Andreyevna
State academic university for the humanities, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vika-zakudryavskaya@yandex.ru

Sayko Elena Anatolyevna
State academic university for the humanities, Moscow, Russia
Chief researcher at science and publishing center «Nauka» of the Russian academy of sciences, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: sayko13@list.ru

Abstract. This article presents an assessment of the influence of the designers of the St. Petersburg association “World of Arts” and avant-garde artists on the fashion of the first quarter of the twentieth century, and also traces the inclusion of global and Russian trends in the characters of the Russian Ballet. Being an entreprise theater, operating mainly in Europe, he stirred up the public with the eccentricity and exoticism of costumes, elements of which were later reflected in the fashion collections of the time under the name “a la russe” style. “Russian ballet S.P. Diaghileva” became a conductor and a translator of fashion trends for Russia and Europe. In this regard, special attention is paid to the works of Lev Bakst, Alexander Benois, Nikolai Roerich, Natalia Goncharovа, Mikhail Larionov, Naum Gabo. Through a detailed analysis of costume ensembles of ballet productions of «Russian Ballet S.P. Diaghilev», the author was able to appreciate the innovations that were introduced into the fashion, choreographic and stage sphere.

In the process of analyzing the creative activities of ballet designers, the author identified and emphasized the line of development of the world of fashion and art, characteristic of the beginning of the twentieth century. The author points out that on the way from the artists to the avant-garde, the stage design changed from contour and plane to color and volume. If the artists of the “World of Art” association had an intellectual and rational approach, then representatives of the avant-garde showed expression, primitivism, and spontaneity. The author focuses on the powerful dynamics of the development of the costume, including due to the fact that artists were able to endow it with the properties to reflect the inner world of the hero and the existing reality, both stage and world. So theatrical costume and fashion intertwined, reaching the pinnacle of a possible mutual influence. The experience of developing related branches of art is valuable for further work and the creative search for designers, costumers, directors.

Keywords: fashion; «World of Art»; avant-garde; stage costume; decorativeness; eclecticism; «a la russe» style

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