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Vinogradova A.V., Kotomenkova O.G. Detection of the fibrous composition of products from valuable types of wool by light microscopy. Journal of Clothing Science. 2019; 4(4). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/21TLKL419.pdf (in Russian).

Detection of the fibrous composition of products from valuable types of wool by light microscopy

Vinogradova Anna Vyacheslavovna
Peter the great Saint Petersburg polytechnic university, Saint Petersburg, Russia
E-mail: ann-vin@yandex.ru

Kotomenkova Olga Gennadʹevna
Peter the great Saint Petersburg polytechnic university, Saint Petersburg, Russia
E-mail: kot-og@yandex.ru

Abstract. Woolen fibers are falsified in products due to their high cost and popularity among consumers. The most difficult is the quantitative determination of the fibrous composition in materials made from blends of sheep’s wool with wool of more valuable and rarer types: cashmere, angora, mohair, camel hair, etc. Standard research methods are based on the use of microscopy, however, the method of light microscopy most used in laboratories is criticized for its subjectivity, and the lack of data for evaluating its precision.

The article presents research data on determining the error of the results obtained using light microscopy in determining the mass fraction of fibers in two-component blends of sheep wool with angora and cashmere. As a result of the experiment, the authors found that the reliability of determining the mass fraction of various types of wool fibers in their mixtures depends on the species composition of the mixture and is primarily due to differences or similarities in their structure. The use of the method of light microscopy is recommended for samples consisting of fibers of sheep wool in mixtures with angora. The recommendations are based on a tolerance of 5 percent established by the technical regulation of the Customs Union “On the safety of light industry products” for the fibrous composition of textile products. The authors suggest that the results obtained using light microscopy will also be acceptable for mixtures of sheep’s wool with mohair, camel hair and animal hair and the llama family. However, for textile materials and their products, which include sheep’s wool and cashmere fibers, this method cannot be recommended due to a significant error.

Keywords: wool; cashmere; angora; falsification; identification methods; optical microscopy; light microscopy

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