2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Sichkarʹ T.V., Alimova N.K., Sokolova P.A. Ainu folk costume: unity and diversity of design solutions. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/21IVKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Ainu folk costume: unity and diversity of design solutions

Sichkarʹ Tatʹyana Valentinovna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: ditava1@mail.ru

Alimova Natalʹya Konstantinovna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: alimova@mir-nauki.com

Sokolova Polina Andreevna
Institute of World Civilizations, Moscow, Russia
E-mail: radzeveljuk@mail.ru

Abstract. The relevance of the scientific article is shown by the example of preserving the ethnoculture of the small peoples of East Asia. Their cultural and historical characteristics can be traced through household items and national clothing. Therefore, to study the unity and diversity of design solutions, an analysis of the traditional clothing of the Ainu of Sakhalin and Hokkaido was carried out. The authors examine the traditional clothing of the Ainu, a small ethnic group of the island of Hokkaido, who previously also lived on the territory of Sakhalin and the Kuril Islands. Japanese clothing was called kosonte in Ainu culture, Manchu robes were called manchu-konoste. Silk outfits were also called sarampe or sarampe-imi. The word Imi in some cases meant a robe of Japanese cut. Depending on the color and decoration, sarampe-imi could only be worn by certain Ainu circles. Men of high status had the right to wear silk outfits of colorful colors with images of dragons. Japanese yukata robes and hitoe summer kimonos were used as the basis for the tikarkarpe. Using the example of the shoulder clothing of the Ainu of Hokkaido and Sakhalin, an analysis of the materials used, coloristic and ornamental solutions was carried out. Similarities and differences in the shoulder clothing of the Ainu of Sakhalin and Hokkaido were identified. The influence of the culture of the indigenous peoples of Sakhalin and Japan on the Ainu culture is considered. A comparative analysis of individual items from the collection of modern designer clothing by Yulia Ten using national Ainu motifs was carried out.

Keywords: Ainu; color scheme; shoulder clothing; ornament; design solutions of Hokkaido; Sakhalin; Japanese clothing

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