2023, Vol. 8, No. 3. - go to content...

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Мурашова Н. В., Масалова В. А. Defects in the alignment of striped or checkered fabric patterns on the seams of clothing. Journal of Clothing Science. 2023; 8(3). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/28TLKL323.pdf (in Russian).

Defects in the alignment of striped or checkered fabric patterns on the seams of clothing

Murashova Nadezhda Vladimirovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: mura-5@mail.ru

Masalova Valentina Anatolyevna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: vammgu@yandex.ru

Abstract. It has been revealed that the literary sources available today are intended for the stage of artistic modeling, and that information on the constructive (technical) modeling of products made from materials with complex repeat is practically absent, and the existing information in print and on Internet sites is not reliable, reliable and comprehensive. Clothing models with defects in the combination of stripe and check patterns on the seams of the products have been assembled for several decades. Sorting the collected models led to the creation of a classification of defects in combining striped and checkered material patterns on the seams of designed garments, consisting of 64 types of defects, combined into 11 groups, which is published for the first time in this article in full in tabular form.

Defect-free design of products with a combination of the fabric pattern on the MC seams is possible using innovative technologies developed for fabrics with complex repeat at our department, representing a comprehensive solution to problem situations at all stages of product design, in the form of creating design methods, developing patents and databases, creating shading corresponding to the pattern of the material, using techniques for designing the position of the basic shading points, which makes it possible to prevent the occurrence of defects in the alignment of the fabric pattern at the seams of clothing.

The authors examined in the form of drawings with photographs some of the defects included in the classification table, and gave a brief description of the causes of these defects. For example, one of the common defects is the non-alignment of the symmetry axes of the fabric pattern with the symmetry axes of the structural part, or the symmetry axes that are not aligned on the upper and lower parts of the front parts, as well as the failure to use the only symmetry axis of the pattern located on the structural part not only offset from center, but even at an angle to the center of the model design part.

The developed classification of defects in combining striped and checkered material patterns on the seams of designed garments is the result of the lack of constructive modeling of these fabrics in the specialized literature and on Internet sites.

Keywords: strip or checkered pattern; pattern parameters; shading of design details; pattern alignment defects

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