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Petukhova O.Yu., Alibekova M.I. The cultural code of the Pomor region through the prism of self-identification in the development of a fashion collection. Journal of Clothing Science. 2026; 11(1). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/30IVKL126.pdf (in Russian).

The cultural code of the Pomor region through the prism of self-identification in the development of a fashion collection

Petukhova Olga Yurievna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: 220557@stud.rguk.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1338030

Alibekova Mariyat Ismailovna
Russian State University named A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: mariyat-alibekova@yandex.ru
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2633-0174
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=673297

Abstract. The article analyzes and studies the historical and cultural context of Pomor traditional clothing, which is a unique layer of the material culture of the Russian North, formed in a harsh climate and special socio-economic relations. It is revealed that the Pomors, an ethnographic group of the Russian people that developed on the shores of the White Sea and the northern rivers (Onega, Pechora, Severnaya Dvina, Mezen) in the X–XII centuries, created an original culture in which harmony with nature dominated military conflicts. Their lifestyle, based on fishing, hunting and navigation, determined the specifics of the costume, which combined practicality, symbolic richness and aesthetic perfection.

The relevance of this research is due to the growing interest in regional identity in the context of globalization, the need to rethink traditional cultural heritage in the context of modernity, as well as personal interest in one’s own roots and the desire for a deeper analysis and rethinking of the culture of one’s native land.

The aim of the work is to develop a conceptual collection of modern women’s clothing prêt-à-porter in the style of the Pomeranian costume, based on a deep understanding of the historical, functional and symbolic aspects of the tradition of the Pomeranian people, adapted to the requirements of today. To achieve this goal, it became necessary to solve certain tasks — the analysis and processing of the traditional Pomeranian costume, the identification of key elements of the cultural code, the formulation of principles of adaptation and the development of specific proposals for their implementation in modern costume design.

The practical result of the work was the formation of an integral concept of the collection with a well-thought-out bow structure, a system of color and texture combinations. The results obtained confirm the potential of the Pomeranian costume as a significant resource for the development of competitive modern collections that strengthen cultural identity and expand the repertoire of Russian fashion.

Keywords: clothing; folk costume; design; shape; color; ornament; materials; collection

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