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Ablaeva U.O., Asanova L.A. Woven head shawls of Crimean Tatars. Journal of Clothing Science. 2025; 10(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/34IVKL225.pdf (in Russian).

Woven head shawls of Crimean Tatars

Ablaeva Ulviye Osmanovnа
Crimean Engineering and Pedagogical University named after Fevzi Yakubov, Simferopol, Russia
E-mail: ulvieablaieva@gmail.com
ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-2710-5430

Asanova Lera Aripovna
Crimean Engineering and Pedagogical University named after Fevzi Yakubov, Simferopol, Russia
E-mail: lera_arip_qizi@mail.ru

Abstract. The article is devoted to the female head ornamented shawls of the Crimean Tatars, which were one of the brightest elements in the national culture and traditional decorative and applied art. According to narrative and object sources, two main types are known to be of the wide use, such as with embroidered and woven decorations, the distinctive feature of which was the multiple functionality of head shawls. Namely, it was as an obligatory part of the costume complex, an element of pre-wedding rituals and wedding ceremonies, interior decoration, and a marker of ethnic (sub-ethnic) identity. This study for the first time deals with separate issues of woven head shawls. Some technological methods of patterned weaving, principles of decoration, and use of separate motifs are considered on the basis of comparative-historical analysis with more studied national embroidered shawls.

Several authentic head shawls from private collections and a large number of illustrative sources due to which a typological analysis was made, served as direct objects of study. The main methods of making woven head shawls were briefly described, schemes with the exact location of decoration were made, ornamental compositions were analyzed, the main of which is the archetypal symbol of the Tree of Life. An important problem of national culturology is to comprehend the semantics of national patterns, so this study also touches upon them.

This research performs that there were their own principles of patterned decoration in the design of woven head shawls, compared to other types of decorating the traditional headdresses of this type. They include patterned filling of the whole field of the shawl and obligatory decoration of edges with those or other motifs.

Keywords: Crimean Tatars; decorative-applied art; patterned weaving; head shawl; ornamental composition; patterned edging; motifs

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