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Vozmilova A.A., Petushkova G.I. [Evolution of the shirt cut in a historical retrospective] Journal of Clothing Science, 2021, Vol. 6, No. 3. Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/05IVKL321.pdf (in Russian).

Evolution of the shirt cut in a historical retrospective

Vozmilova Anna Alexandrovna
Russian State University by A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: gewinn.design@gmail.com
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=1025554

Petushkova Galina Ivanovna
Russian State University by A.N. Kosygin (Technologies. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: galina-petushkova@mail.ru
RSCI: https://elibrary.ru/author_profile.asp?id=906201

Abstract. In this research, the authors trace the evolution of the cut of such an important attribute of costume as a shirt. It was revealed that the prototypes of shirts were found already in the XIV–XIII centuries BC. Until now, the shirt in one form or another is present in the folk costumes of many different countries. Over the centuries, the appearance of the shirt has undergone significant changes, but its role in the costume remained extremely important. In addition to the functions of underwear, the shirt performed a number of other functions: decorative, sacred, ceremonial, protective, and so on. By the cut, color, material and decor of the shirt, it was possible to determine national, political, social belonging, as well as gender, approximate age and status of the owner. Nowadays, the shirt is an important attribute of men’s, women’s and even children’s clothing. The article contains the results of the analysis of the appearance and cut of the shirts of people of Central Asia, Bashkiria, Tatarstan, the inhabitants of the Altai of the Early Iron Age (Pazyryk people), as well as the East Slavic peoples. These results are summarized in the table. The diagram of the cut of the Russian men’s shirt is given. The study of the evolutionary historical development of the shirt in Europe in the context of social and class differences is carried out. Conclusions about the role and functions of the shirt in costume design are drawn. Further study of shirt cut of different periods and ethnic groups will expand and deepen the analogue base of historical costumes for fashion designers.

Keywords: shirt; cut; suit; costume; folk costume; tunic; color; fabric

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