2019, Vol. 4, No. 2. - go to content...

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Kholodnova E.V., Galkin A.V., Chalenko E.A., Kirsanova E.A. Use of gasket materials when executing machine embroidery. Journal of Clothing Science. 2019; 4(2). Available at: https://kostumologiya.ru/PDF/20TLKL219.pdf (in Russian).

Use of gasket materials when executing machine embroidery

Kholodnova Elena Vladimirovna
A.N. Kosygin`s Russian state university (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: ev-xolodnova@yandex.ru

Galkin Andrey Vladimirovich
A.N. Kosygin`s Russian state university (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: galkin@softstitch.ru

Chalenko Elena Anatolyevna
A.N. Kosygin`s Russian state university (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: ele-ela@yandex.ru

Kirsanova Elena Alexandrovna
A.N. Kosygin`s Russian state university (Technology. Design. Art), Moscow, Russia
E-mail: oimgudt@yandex.ru

Abstract. The article presents the results of systematization of auxiliary gasket materials used to perform hand and machine embroidery on household and industrial equipment, such as: stabilizers removed in the course of work, duplicate materials, adhesives, and materials creating various effects. The characteristic of the basic properties of the above materials is given. So, the whole variety of removable stabilizers is intended for fixing tensile materials, both at the time of execution and at the end of the embroidery process; duplicate materials are used to impart dimensional stability to embroidered details; effect-creating materials are used to create additional decorative or masking effects; All types of adhesives are used to join non-adhesive liners with the base material.

Listed and described in detail the main types of defects formed during the execution of machine embroidery, and an analysis of the causes of their occurrence. The main types of defects include: tension of the material, resulting from poor-quality filling of the material in the hoop and its ability to stretch under the action of the load; the displacement of the embroidery elements relative to the planned position, associated with the violation of the embroidery machine program; needle puncture damages resulting in the embroidery elements falling out of the workpiece; volumetric deformation (distortion of the surface of the part) due to insufficient tension of the base material during embroidery; dips stitches in loose and fleecy materials, such as velvet, knitwear, terry fabrics, etc.

The authors considered the features of the use of stabilizers for embroidery. Practical recommendations have been developed for the use of various auxiliary materials when performing machine embroidery on household and automated equipment.

Keywords: removable stabilizers; dublerin; materials for creating effects; adhesives for bonding layers of materials during embroidery; auxiliary materials; foamiranes; puffs; non-woven fabrics; water-soluble stabilizers; duplicate materials; machine embroidery defects; a garment

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